A rare gold embroidered brown-ground gauze "dragon" robe Qing dynasty, Jiaqing period

finely couched in gold thread with eight five-clawed dragons, the beasts writhing in pursuit of embroidered 'flaming pearls', all among the babao, peach sprays and swooping bats amid multi-coloured cloud scrolls, all above rolling and crashing waves, the lower arms left plain, the dark-blue horse-hoof cuffs and collar decorated with writhing dragons and bats above waves and amid swirling clouds, with couched gold thread edgings

A Private French Collection. 

The overall condition is very good. The robe is in near original condition with no fading or loose threads.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Brown-ground ji fu (semi-formal court robe) are among the rarest of the colours.  Very few brown robes from the early Qing dynasty exist today.  Ji fu were worn at the Qing court for imperial birthday celebrations and on less formal occasions.  They were worn together with the ji fu dai (festive dress belt), the ji guan (festive hat), the court necklace and a surcoat.  According to Linda Wigglesworth and Gary Dickinson, the tailoring of the ji fu is quite different from the chao pao (official court robe) and was based on the traditional Manchu garment rather than the Ming style formal court dress construction.

Compare a Qianlong period brown-ground robe with similar design, including the similar unusual decoration of peach sprays, but without the lishui border, in the National Palace Museum, Beijing, illustrated in The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum, vol. 51, Hong Kong, 2005, pl.95.