Lot 519
  • 519

A Fabergé Aesthetic Movement jewelled gold and enamel pendant, Moscow, circa 1890

Estimate
18,000 - 25,000 GBP
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Description

  • height: 4cm., 1½in
of shaped triangular form, decorated with varicoloured translucent enamel circular discs, each centred with a rose-cut diamond, on a white opaque enamel ground, marked K.F., 56 standard

Condition

Light surface scratches to the enamel. The piece would benefit from a professional clean but otherwise appears to be in good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This scattered disc motif appears on the well-known cigarette case and matching brooch formerly in the Forbes Collection, both illustrated, G. von Habsurg, Fabergé: Imperial Craftsman and His World, 2000, nos. 200 and 200a, p. 126.  Its Aesthetic style is a hybrid of Japanese and Arts and Crafts influences.  The discs are Fabergé's interpretation of Japanese kikumon, or pie ornament, which is a formalised chrysanthemum originally used as a heraldic device and symbol of Imperial power on fabric and Imari ceramics; the motif was widely imitated in the West in the late 19th century.  Sotheby's 1966 cataloguing of the Forbes case refers to the decoration as "in Korin style", after Japanese painter and lacquerer Ogata Korin (c.1657-1716); see Sotheby's London, 21 March 1966, lot 119.  As noted by von Habsburg, it is "one of the most original designs from the Fabergé Moscow workshop; it is also one of the most technically accomplished", owing to the difficulty of firing so many different coloured enamels simultaneously.