Art Deco Emerald, sapphire and diamond Belt brooch, Cartier, Paris, 1922

Of arched form, composed of a central rectangular panel flanked by a pair of symmetrical palmette motifs, the large octagonal step-cut emerald weighing approximately 38.71 carats held within two diamond-set claws, each side accented with channel-set sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, the corners pavé-set with old European-cut diamonds, the set with rows of cabochon sapphires, the palmettes similarly decorated with sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, small sugarloaf cabochon emeralds and pavé-set diamonds, all edged in buff-top calibré-cut sapphires fringed with single-cut diamonds, the total diamond weight approximately 7.75 carats, mounted in platinum, numbered 0346, French assay marks. With original red leather Cartier box. 

The emerald is a medium slightly bluish-green color and moderately included. The body of the stone is transparent, with interesting "jardins" inclusions. A minor amount of abrading to the facet junctions and a few small surface-reaching inclusions. Slightly loose in its mounting, but stable. The buff-top emeralds are of similar color and quality, with some surface-reaching inclusions. Sapphires are a medium blue color and are slightly included. There is one buff-top sapphire at the tip of the right-hand side of the bow that is chipped, and several others show abrasions and minor surface-reaching inclusions. Diamonds are approximately H-J color and VS clarity. Not signed but accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Cartier. Numbered 0346 on reverse of the frame of the center emerald. In good condition overall. The red and gilt-tooled box with golden-colored felt and cream-colored silk interior show moderate wear and soiling.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Cartier, no. GE2003-230, dated June 16, 2004. 

Although the present brooch is described as a belt buckle, it is not limited to being worn at the waist. A jeweled ornament of similar style is shown in an illustration from 1929 holding folds of fabric on the dress of a fashionable lady who is also adorned by a single strand of pearls.