Art Nouveau Gold, plique-à-jour enamel, opal and diamond pendant, Henri Vever, circa 1900

Designed as a slender curving branch set with rose-cut diamonds, bearing green plique-à-jour enamel leaves and an articulated fringe of fuchsia blossoms composed of opal segments, the largest set with old European-cut diamonds, signed Vever, together with a gold chain, length 16½ inches. With gilt embossed leather case stamped on silk 'Ane Mon Marret & Baugrand, Vever 19 Rue de la Paix 19 Paris Grand Prix Expon Univle Paris 1889'

The plique-a-jour is intact, as are the opal segments. Diamonds are of decorative quality. Beautiful workmanship and detail, with lovely movement when worn. In good condition overall. Signed Vever on the rim at the base of the stem and numbered 2462 on the bail.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Henri Vever was a third-generation jeweler who, along with his brother Paul, moved to Paris with his father at age 17. In 1874, both brothers became partners in the family business. According to their educations and talents, Paul became responsible for the commercial side of the business while Henri managed the creative side. In 188l, when their father retired, the brothers took over the management of the family firm. Their collaboration was so successful that they won the Grand Prix at the Exposition Universelle of 1889, the first of three such prizes to be granted to them.

The Vever brothers had many sources of inspiration, from naturalistic themes such as flowers and leaves to classical motifs. In addition, they championed new techniques, especially in the field of enamelling. At the turn of the century, the house of Vever ranked alongside of Lalique in creating some of the most beautiful of jewels in the Art Nouveau style. By contrast to their more avant-garde contemporaries, Vever's jewels were a bit more restrained in design and they continued to favor the use of precious stones set within finely wrought mountings. 

In 1907, the Vevers moved from 19 to 14 Rue de la Paix. Here they displayed a new collection of jewelry mounted in platinum which allowed for new design possibilities.  Henri Vever retired in 1921 and left the business in the hands of his nephews, Andre and Pierre who continued to manage the firm until 1960. 

In addition to being one of France's most renowned jewelers, Henri Vever (1854-1942) is remembered as a historian, a critic and a writer. His landmark study La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle remains unequalled as a reference book on French jewelry.