Cartier, maker's mark of *** Renaud, Cartier workmaster, Paris, circa 1925, numbered: 8159
square with shaped corners, each face inset with panels of Chinese 18th century lacquer inlaid in gold and coloured nacres with wooded landscapes and pavilions, descriptive poems above, encrusted with rose diamonds at the corners, the sides chased with chysanthemum motifs on a black enamel ground, one side with doors to vesta and cigarette compartments, Chinese key patterned scroll handle on chain with enamelled links set with diaper-cut coral beads within rose diamonds, the interior with several compartments, one lidded for powder, one with fitted gold and blond tortoiseshell comb and one with flat gold lipstick holder; and two cut-cornered square lacquer counter trays, Chinese, 18th century, similarly decorated in gold and coloured mother of pearl with peasants planting rice and women at a loom, 10.5cm, 4 1/4 in
Louis Cartier initially used Ch'ing Dynasty laque burgauté from his own collections to embellish Art Deco objects. The first Chinese-inspired motifs appeared by 1913 but it was not until a decade later that the style came into its own. See exhibition catalogue, Reflections of Elegance, Cartier Jewels from the Lindemann Collection, New Orleans, 1988, pls. XXXVII-IX.
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