GOLD, ENAMEL, AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND PENDANT, RENÉ LALIQUE, CIRCA 1900

Set to the centre with a cushion-shaped aquamarine, within an open work frame of four opposing draggonflies decorated with plique-à-jour enamel wings, embellished with circular- and rose-cut diamonds, to a green enamel baton link chain, length approximately 520mm, signed Lalique, original fitted case by R. Lalique, 40. Cours. La.Reine, Paris.

Cf: René Lalique, Schmuck und Objects d'art, 1890-1910, Sigrid Barten, Prestel, 1989, page 344, plate 734, for an illustration of the original design of the above pendant.

Overall very good condition, but with some minor wear and damage to enamel commensurate with age. Three cells to left where two wings bisect with damage to enamel, ( two with hairline crack and one with small hole in enamel visible under 10x magnification ) Signed in full either side of top of pendant and partially signed half way down on one side, Central aquamarine bight lively stone with some characteristic inclusions and some small chips to facet edges. Chain in good condition, with chip to one enamel baton link, sixth link up on right hand side. Original case slightly scuffed to exterior, slight marks to velvet and silk frayed to left and right inside lid.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

René Lalique, was undoubtedly one of the champions of the Art Nouveau movement, heralded as the 'Lalique Epoc' he brought to the goldsmiths art something that had not been seen since the days of Benvenuto Cellinni in the 16^th Century. Apprenticed to Louis Aucoc from 1876-78 he began working as an independent jewellery designer during the 1880's, presenting his early creations under the names of Boucheron and Verver, achieving acclaim at the Exposition Universal in Paris in 1900 with his fantastical creations set against a backdrop of winged female bronzes beneath a gauze sky embellished with velvet bats. He overturned the traditional concepts of jewellery design, which previously had centred on gold, diamonds and precious stones and was to merge them with the applied arts. Amidst the climate of orientalism he drew on the organic themes of plant, insect and animal tied in with a metaphysical use of imagery and play of light and colour. Ever conscious of the mutability of nature and the cycle of the seasons he drew on the iconography of the Art Nouveau movement to capture a flower or insect through the cycle of birth and death.

Never afraid to employ new materials such as horn and iridescent glass, to achieve the required effect, he was constantly pushing the boundaries of jewellery design. Creating metamorphoses and transgressions between the animal and plant Kingdom.During the closing years of the 19^th Century, he was constantly blurring the frontiers of the differing disciplines of the decorative arts.