DIAMOND DIADEM TIARA, CIRCA 1919

Designed as a diadem composed of a series of graduated chevron panels, centring on an oval plaque  set between arched shoulders, embellished throughout with circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, inner circumference approximately 210mm, signed Paris, Londres and numbered, later fitted case by Antrobus 6-8 Old Bond Street, London, W1.

Cf: Cartier 1900-1939, Judy Rudoe, British Museum Press, 1997, pages 266-269 for examples of diamond bandeau tiaras by Cartier.

Cf: Platinum by Cartier, Triumphs of the Jewellers' Art, Franco Cologni and Eric Nussbaum, Harry N. Abrams, Inc Publishers, 1995, pages 111 and 141 for examples of diamond bandeau tiaras by Cartier.

Cf: Timeless Tiaras, Chaumet from 1804 to the Present, Diana Scarisbrick, Assouline 2002, pages 95 and 191 for examples of bandeau tiaras by Chaumet.

Estimated total diamond weight approximately 35.0 - 40.0 carats, mixed colours and clarities. Four principal diamonds estimated colour H-J colour, estimated clarity VS - SI. Please refer to crib sheet for further details on diamond weights. Some evidence of alterations and adaptations with solder to reverse and to either terminating fitting, particularly to central plaque, not visible when worn. Small repairs visible from the front as slightly darker areas connecting the central chevron row to the left and right hand side of the oval plaque. Minor discolouration to metal on reverse in some places probably from repairs. Signed Paris, Londres and numbered SL1144. Please note the alterations mentioned above might mean a signature could have possibly been removed. With loop fittings to either end probably later, to attach an elastic to aid with fitting the tiara in the hair. Light indentations and scratches to frame consistent with age. An elegant and very wearable piece. In very good condition.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

After extensive research it has not been possible to attribute the tiara to any specific jewellery house. The presence of a stock number prefixed by L and the signature of Paris and Londres would however point to one of the many Parisian jewellers, many of whom opened shops in London's fashionable Bond Street during the first two decades of the 20th Century. Stylistically the diadem resembles tiaras produced by both Cartier and Chaumet, however it was a popular form adopted by many jewellers during the 1920s. The diadem/bandeau was worn low over the forehead and designed to be seen in the round to complement the short hair styles of the time. The tiara has almost certainly been altered over the course of time and may originally have been designed with a clasp fastening to the reverse, Cf: Tiaras, A History of Splendour, Geoffrey C. Munn, Antique Collectors' Club, 2001, page 262, for an illustration of a diamond diadem made by Cartier for Beatrice Mills, designed to be worn in the round. Any later alterations would require the removal of such a device to allow the tiara to be worn by either another wearer or to sit higher on the head. It is therefore possible that any assay marks or signature may have been present on the clasp fittings and subsequently been removed when altered.