Revivalist Gold, Hardstone Cameo, Ruby and Pearl Necklace, Castellani, circa 1870

Composed of 9 oval onyx and sardonyx cameos carved with various classical figures, all within gold frames of conforming shape decorated with twisted wire, spaced by links of modified pyramid form inset with square-cut rubies and bordered by pairs of pearls, the sides accented with black enamel, length 15¾ inches, one cameo signed with Greek letters for Pichler, mounting signed with monogram of interlaced C's for Castellani. 

Johan Anton Pichler (1697-1779) was the first of three generations of noted Italian gem engravers that began the custom of signing cameos to prevent them from being sold as ancient or antique. The Pichlers often signed their name using Greek letters as can be seen on the cameo of the woman with raised arms in this necklace. 

 

The renowned dynasty of Castellani began with Fortunato Pio (1794-1865) who by the age of twenty was a manufacturing goldsmith. In the mid 1820s he befriended Michaelangelo Caetani, a famous archaeologist who was later to become Duke of Sermoneta. A man of considerable wealth and influence, he inspired Fortunato and his two sons Alessandro and Augusto to abandon traditional jewelry design and produce pieces of antique and archaeological inspiration. In addition, the Castellanis also studied and revived the goldsmiths techniques of the past inlcuding the difficult task of rediscovering the secrets of Etruscan granulation. The family also assisted Cavalier Campana, the director of the Sacro Monte di Pietà in Rome, to put together a substantial collection of works of art which inlcuded hundreds of Greek, Roman and Etruscan jewels.