AN EXTREMELY RARE AND ONLY KNOWN FINE OVERSIZED GOLD CIRCULAR WRISTWATCH WITH LACQUERED BLACK DIAL AND BREGUET NUMERALS, Patek Philippe & Co., Genève, NO. 828533, REF. 530, CIRCA 1938

18k, Geneva striped nickel lever movement (calibre 12 120), 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance, index regulator, lacquered black dial with applied gold Breguet numerals, gold leaf hands, outer minute ring, subsidiary dial for constant seconds at 6, polished circular case with chamfered bezel, down-turned lugs, snap-on case back, case, dial and movement signed. 

'The Grabau Calatrava'

Ref. 530

Reference 530 was launched in 1938 and its production ceased in 1944.   Few examples of the model appear to have been manufactured and this rare model is favored for its larger size, slightly over 36mm. 

The predecessor of Ref. 570, Ref. 530 is differentiated by its concave bezel, instead of the flat bezel of Ref. 570. The entire case is larger and the lugs look heavier giving the watch a unique presence. Only few watches were made, mostly to avoid confusion with the Ref. 530 Chronograph and the listed new Ref. 570.  Most of the Ref. 530 cases were made by Geneva Master case maker Croisier, whereas Ref. 570 cases were made by Gerlach.  

The modern Ref. 5196 is inspired by the early Calatrava wristwatches of the 1930s, such as the present lot.  The large case and clean dial emulate the Bauhaus aesthetic characteristic of Patek Philippe's classic Calatrava design.

The Dial

The collectable appeal and exceptional rarity of this example is greatly enhanced by its original black lacquered dial and use of Breguet numerals.  This is the ONLY example of this reference in gold and with black dial and Breguet numerals publicly known and, to the best of our knowledge, the present piece has never been publicly offered at auction.

Our research at the Stern Creations Dial Factory, confirms that the dial was made there. A stainless steel example of Ref. 530 is now housed at the Patek Philippe museum.  Illustration of a similar example, see ''Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Volume 2, Second Edition,'' by Huber & Banbery, p. 169, pl. 261 and p. 170, pl. 262.

The Case

With an impressive diameter of 36.2mm, the large case of the present lot also retains superb definition and is in remarkable condition for a Patek Philippe wristwatch from the 1930s.  The gold marks are particularly crisp, explicable by the fact that it has been stored without use for many years.  This case was manufactured in 1938 by one of Patek Philippe's favored case makers, Croisier.  The inside of the case back is numbered 505933.

The Movement

The movement of the present lot, Calibre 12-120, appears in excellent condition and is exceptionally well-preserved for a 68-year-old wristwatch.  The movement is numbered 828533, dating its manufacture to 1938.

The 18'000 oscillations per hour Calibre 12-120 was undoubtedly the greatest wristwatch calibre with mechanical winding ever made by Patek Philippe: this movement belongs to the first series (with bi-metallic cut balance, regulating screws, flat hairspring) made from 1935 to 1940, and is one of the first movements known to bear the micrometric 'swan neck' regulator.

Illustration of cal 12-120 see ''Patek Philippe Wristwatches, Volume 2, Second Edition,'' by Huber & Banbery, p. 168.

Accompaniments

The accompanying Extract from the Patek Philippe Archive confirms that this watch was manufactured in 1938, left the factory with a black dial and gold Breguet numerals and was sold on October 28th the same year.  This watch is also accompanied by the original Patek Philippe certificate stamped by the Polish watch retailer, W. Grabau.