The dynasty of Kugel antique dealers traces its origins back to 18th-century Russia, where Elie Kugel began collecting clocks and watches. His son, Joseph, became a watchmaker to maintain the collection and gradually developed a business dealing in second-hand objects, eventually expanding into jewelry and silverware. Elie’s grandson, Matias Kugel, specialized in silverware and opened shops in Minsk and Saint Petersburg before settling in Paris. His son Jacques carried on the family legacy, opening a small gallery on Rue Amélie in the mid-1950s, followed by another on Rue de la Paix, adding furniture and paintings to their offerings. In 1970, Jacques moved to 279 Rue Saint-Honoré, achieving international acclaim. Fluent in seven languages, he attracted institutions, museums, and prominent collectors worldwide, including Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Bergé, and couturier Hubert de Givenchy. Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé acquired numerous pieces for their apartment on Rue de Babylone. The lots presented here reflect this prestigious heritage, showcasing the exceptional taste and timeless refinement that characterize the works that have passed through the hands of the Kugels—true custodians of art through the centuries.

Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé cultivated a profound bond with the Kugel family, whose legendary gallery became a cornerstone of their private collection. This auction features select pieces born from that enduring association, each a testament to the duo’s unerring eye for elegance and their quest to weave timeless beauty into their celebrated artistic legacy.

The Kugel Dynasty

The photographs intertwining the worlds of Andy Warhol and Helmut Newton, drawn from the collections of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, reveal a fascinating alliance of art, fashion, and culture. These images embody the boldness and refinement that defined the aesthetic of the legendary designer while reflecting a time when boundaries between artistic disciplines dissolved, giving rise to boundless creativity. Andy Warhol, master of pop art, celebrated icons. He met Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in Paris during the 1970s, creating Polaroid portraits of the designer. Here, we present four intimate Polaroids from the 1970s, which the artist gifted to his two friends. Helmut Newton, a legendary photographer, captured a certain sophisticated eroticism that paid homage to the celebrated designer. He is renowned for his iconic Le Smoking series, shot on Rue d’Aubriot in 1975, and was one of Saint Laurent’s favorite fashion photographers. These works reflect the world of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, illustrating their taste and evoking an era where art and fashion were deeply intertwined in a shared pursuit of beauty and emotion.

At the crossroads of art, fashion, and culture, the photographic works from Andy Warhol to Helmut Newton embody the creative synergy that defined Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s universe. This selection captures intimate moments and iconic collaborations, offering a rare glimpse into the bold aesthetic and refined sensibility that shaped their era.

From Andy Warhol to Helmut Newton

The history of the male nude in art is rich and complex, mirroring cultural, religious, and aesthetic shifts throughout the ages. In antiquity, the nude male body was celebrated as the epitome of beauty, strength, and divinity. In ancient Greece, sculptures like the Discobolus and the Doryphoros illustrated idealized proportions, symbolizing values such as harmony and perfection. Gods, heroes, and athletes were often depicted nude, reflecting a vision where the body was a mirror of the soul. The Renaissance saw the resurgence of the male nude, inspired by antiquity. Artists such as Michelangelo exalted the male body in works like David or the Sistine Chapel frescoes. Here, the nude became an aesthetic and spiritual language, where the perfection of the body reflected the glory of divine creation. From the 19th century onwards, the male nude diversified, moving beyond mythological or religious frameworks. Artists such as Gustave Courbet and Eadweard Muybridge explored the body in its raw truth or in motion. In the 20th century, with artists like Egon Schiele, Robert Mapplethorpe, David Hockney, Andy Warhol, and Tom of Finland, the male nude became a medium for exploring intimacy and identity. Yves Saint Laurent also delved into the art of the male nude. Idealized or fantasized, his drawings—created with pencils or markers—combine precise anatomical details with dreamlike fantasies. His works present men in languid or provocative poses. This erotic art reveals an intimate and daring facet of his creativity. Through these drawings, where eroticism meets technical mastery, Yves Saint Laurent invites us into his inner world, offering a profoundly personal sensitivity. With these nudes, he transcends mere desire, transforming it into a unique form of art where beauty and sensuality intertwine. These drawings are not just testaments to creative audacity but also celebrations of artistic freedom and self-expression, leaving a lasting legacy of this genius artist.

The male nude, a motif rich with cultural and artistic significance, found a unique voice through Yves Saint Laurent’s visionary lens. This chapter unveils a series of deeply personal drawings where desire meets artistry, reflecting the designer’s intimate exploration of beauty, sensuality, and freedom.

Yves Saint Laurent and the Male Nude

Paris

Chairman | Co-Worldwide Head of 20th Century Design

Florent Jeanniard

Associate Specialist | 20th Century Design

 Caroline Lescure Hebrard

Head of Department, Furniture

Louis-Xavier Joseph

Meet our Specialists

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During Haute Couture Week, Sotheby’s is honored to unveil a curated selection of works and objects that once belonged to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, offering an exclusive glimpse into the intimate world of this legendary duo.

Yves Saint Laurent – Pierre Bergé : Une Collection Intime