Introduction

Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style

In parallel to the jewellery styles coming from Place Vendôme or Fifth Avenue, centered around precious stones, artist jewellery offered a more conceptual perspective on personal adornment. Pioneered during the interbellum by Jean Dunand and Jean Després, artist jewellery was characterised by strong shapes and various finishes of metal. In the 1960s and 1970s, the Italian artists Arnaldo Pomodoro and Alberto Giorgi created abstract jewels inspired by the machine age. At the same time, avant-garde designers such as Din Vanh and Aldo Cipullo introduced the same purified, industrially inspired lines to established jewellery houses such as Cartier and Tiffany &amp; Co.

Discover jewels created by the group of daring, forward thinking artists and designers of the Art Moderne.

Artist Jewels

Representing the largest collection of jewels by René Boivin to ever appear at auction, this chapter summarises the story behind the French Maison.

René Boivin

Learn more about the evolution of Jewellery styles and fashions from the late 19th century to the 1980s.

Jewellery through the Eras

Director, Head of Sale
Specialist, Jewellery

Marie-Cécile Cisamolo 

Senior Vice President, Head of Jewelry, Americas & EMEA

Quig Bruning

Chairman, Jewellery

Andres White Correal

Senior Vice President, Head of Magnificent Jewels, Geneva

Catharine Becket

Director, Senior Specialist, Jewellery

Jessica Wyndham

Deputy Director, Specialist, Jewellery

Jemima Chamberlain-Adams

Simon Giannini

Associate Specialist, Jewellery

Clarisse Mariotti Spilker

Sales Director, Jewellery, Switzerland

Mariana Penseyres

Meet our Specialists

For assistance with bidding and registration, please contact: +41 (0) 22 908 48 00 enquiries@sothebys.com bids.geneva@sothebys.com

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‘Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style’ portrays one of the most incredible female jewellery collections ever to appear at auction. Collected by an inspirational woman with an educated eye who is genuinely passionate about jewellery and design, this collection represents different styles and volumes from the nineteenth century to modern times. Her infinite knowledge led her to build this collection throughout her life.&nbsp; This sale could become a source of inspiration for other young collectors wishing to collect jewellery as part of history.&nbsp; This dedicated single-owner online auction “Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style”, open from 2 May with bidding closing on 16 May, presents over 200 jewels sold online. The most outstanding lots from the collection will be part of the Magnificent Jewels live sale on 14 May, during Sotheby’s Luxury Sales in Geneva, in which 46 lots will go under the hammer.

Why Boivin, Bulgari & Cartier are Her Sense of Style in a Top Female Jewelry Collection at Sotheby's

Sotheby’s is proud to present an extensive private collection of signed jewels from across the twentieth century. Representing one woman’s passion for both the iconic and avant-garde; the collection is distinguished by one-of-a-kind pieces, many of which have been featured in museum exhibitions and scholarly literature. This dedicated single-owner online auction “Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style”, open from 2 May with bidding closing on 16 May, presenting over 200 jewels sold online. The most outstanding lots from the collection will be part of the Magnificent Jewels live sale on 14 May, during Sotheby’s Luxury Sales in Geneva, in which 46 lots will go under the hammer. The spectacular selection is a homage to twentieth century jewellery design and an encyclopedic showcase of its most iconic pieces and most influential trends as exemplified by creations from the most prestigious jewellery houses including Cartier, Van Cleef &amp; Arpels, Bulgari, Boucheron, Chaumet, David Webb, Mauboussin, Marina B, Sterlé and Mellerio dits Meller. Occupying a particularly special place within “Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style” is René Boivin, one of the most imaginative jewellery houses in the world. Renowned for its intricately crafted and vividly colourful jewellery, Boivin’s style held such great appeal to the private collector that, overtime, this connoisseur acquired what may be the most extensive selection of works by the French jewellery in the world. With nearly thirty lots to be offered as part of “Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style”, this is the largest collection of Boivin jewels ever to come to auction. One of the most defining characteristics of “Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style” is its sheer eclecticism, unified by the private collector’s unerring curatorial eye – judiciously balancing the more iconic jewellery collecting with a self-assuredness in actively seeking more unusual, often eccentric, sometimes unique, or specially commissioned pieces. Whilst most jewellery collectors concentrate on certain periods, brands or styles, this collector sought to acquire the most remarkable examples of jewellery from all the most important decades and design trends of the twentieth century: Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque, Art Deco, and Modernism. The collector’s passion and sense of style shines through the diversity within the collection, its many bold and colourful pieces and a penchant for intricate craftsmanship from the world’s very best jewellery houses.

Sapphire and diamond necklace, circa 1960

Coral, sapphire and emerald demi-parure, 1970s

Pair of nephrite and gem set cuffs, 'Maltese Cross Cuff'

Suite of gold and diamond brooches, 'Flamme', 1950s

Gold ring, circa 1970

Gold and antique coin necklace, 'Monete', circa 1980

Amethyst and diamond brooch, 1950s

Lapis lazuli, turquoise and diamond brooch, Cartier, 1920s and a turquoise and diamond necklace

Lady's gold and diamond wristwatch, circa 1950

Black jade necklace, circa 1980

Gold bangle

Pair of gold earrings, 'Castanuelas', circa 1970

Founding his Parisian atelier in the 1890s, René Boivin set himself and the house of Boivin apart from his contemporaries with a bold aesthetic that drew inspiration from flora and fauna. His daring approach challenged the conventions of traditional Art Nouveau forms and techniques. The upcoming Luxury Week sales in Geneva will include an single owner collection showcasing the finest examples of of Boivin jewelry to come to market in recent years.