L auded as the “Best Kept Secret of Place Vendôme,” Parisian jeweler Édéenne creates exquisitely intricate pieces. During October the designer unveiled stunning creations in a debut selling exhibition at Sotheby's London, and this November, she has collaborated again with Sotheby’s by creating four original designs around loose stones in Diamonds Online | Capsule Collection (13–20 November | Online). In her signature bejeweled flora and fauna aesthetic, Édéenne provides a few examples of the design potential each loose diamond possesses. Discover her sketches below while also learning more about her unique point of view.
What is your design process? From where do you find inspiration?
I studied both gemology and jewelry techniques and am part of the Horlogers Bijoutiers Joailliers Orfevres. My process begins with a sketch, and I work very closely with my craftsmen at the workshop. I can spend days changing elements to reach the exact movement or impression I want to achieve.
I find inspiration from our collective memory. An artist is someone who conveys his vision of the world. Even if it sounds paradoxical, I’ve discovered that the more intimate my work is, the more universal it becomes.
How do new ideas for designs come to you?
Ideas can come from everyday events, a landscape, a storefront, an exhibition, but for me, they mostly come from encounters. This is one of the reasons why my signature bespoke jewelry work is called “The Jeweler’s Portrait.” I wish to express what is incredible in each person through a piece of jewelry. During this process, I meet clients, and after asking them several questions over about two or three hours, I can envision their design.
Do you start with the stone or the design for new creations?
It depends. I would usually start from the design, but a wonderful stone may “speak to me," like the Traîne de Corsage, which was exhibited at Sotheby’s in October. For that piece I chose two huge emeralds, one that was 22 carats and pearl-shaped, and the other, a 30-carat drop. As soon as I saw the stones, I immediately imagined a lily with a long tassel made of pearls.
What is your favorite shaped diamond?
Cushion-cut diamonds. This shape is ancient but also modern because it recently became popular in the market again. Still, this shape is rare and thus quite unique. I love to create original designs, which go beyond traditional high jewelry, with cushion-cut diamonds.
For novices who are purchasing loose diamonds to create bespoke pieces, what advice would you give them?
What about meeting me? More seriously, to be sure that they feel their stones are enhanced, both by their hidden meaning or significance and by the quality of craftsmanship.
What are your favorite materials to work with?
People’s lives, to transpose their emotions into jewelry. That is the real material to work with. The diamonds come to support the uniqueness of the owner and show his or her own vision of beauty.
What is your favorite color diamond?
I like all colors of diamonds, however, I have a slight preference for blue ones. I find Fancy Yellow ones very elegant too.
How important is color to your design process?
I work as a painter would, juxtaposing colors to create a harmonious design and, above all, to bear meaning. Colored diamonds bring something more: colored light. Resonance is at the core of my creations, and no other gem can give this effect as much as diamonds.
To get in touch with Edéenne and design your dream jewel, contact edeenne@edeenne.com.
