Edward Barsamian Tries on the Chanel Collection
The editor and advocate for sustainable fashion joins Sotheby’s to view our RE(LUX) season focusing on ethical purchasing and discuss evolving trends in the resale market.
With over a decade of experience in fashion at Vogue, T: The New York Times Style Magazine, Victoria Beckham, and more, Edward Barsamian lends his eye and shares his top picks from the Chanel Collection.
How did you enter the fashion industry?
I started off at a regional publication called Quest. From there I moved to Vogue on the cusp of its heyday. After that, I moved to T: The New York Times Style Magazine, where I met Bill Cunningham. He taught me to view fashion beyond the runway and ask, “How are people actually wearing this?” I started thinking about fashion as how we present ourselves. I rejoined Vogue as a digital editor and developed their celebrity and red-carpet vertical, showing stylists’ processes. In January 2019, I moved to London to work with Victoria Beckham, and when the pandemic started I moved back to New York to be with my family and started a consultancy.
You’re someone who’s really contributed to the future of fashion. What role do you see sustainability and the resale market at a place like Sotheby’s playing in fashion today?
Over the past few years we’ve seen a trend towards people buying into a community — brand values really do matter. Many resale sites actually encourage people to view high fashion in the same way people view fast fashion — where materials aren’t ethically sourced or good for the environment — in that they encourage designers to increase production to meet demand.
I’m not a fan of that. Recently I decided that for every item I buy, I have to give up three others. Places like Sotheby’s discourage overconsumption because they’re part of that circular economy.
Sotheby’s can use its credibility in curating to help educate audiences about why a collection matters, or why a piece is so special. And not only is someone buying a piece of fashion history, but they’re often buying it from somebody who’s one of the reasons why the house is as important as it is — that’s wild!
What pieces from the Chanel Collection would you most like to add to your wardrobe?
There is no more iconic piece than a black bouclé jacket — it’s so versatile; you invest in it once. This sale has one that Kate Moss wore from the 2009 collection. She could wear a Chanel jacket with a skinny jeans during the day and with tuxedo trousers and a bra at night — and look equally ravishing in both setups. That’s what a Chanel black jacket does.
The Nehru-collar linen jacket with black trim is the opposite of a little black jacket but is just as iconic. Mademoiselle Chanel often did jackets like this. It pairs with everything from denim to satin Palazzo trousers.
Everybody knows the classic Chanel bags, but I’m obsessed with the bowler bag. It has black quilted leather, the gold-link chain and handles, and all of the signatures, but it’s a very unusual shape. It adds an instant cool factor.
The tiny gold-bullion clutch reminds me of the elaborate sets Mr. Lagerfeld created for his runways — things like spaceships and grocery stores. It only fits the essentials, but it’s so whimsical, and having a novelty bag from one of his collections would be so special.
The PVC bag from spring/summer 1988 ready-to-wear is delightful. Mr. Lagerfeld had only been at the house for three or four years at that point, but he had already made such an impact. Bags like these are often in terrible condition on the resale market because people really use them, but these are in excellent shape.
In terms of jewelry, there’s too many to choose from. The Gripoix jewelry from the 1980s and early ’90s are some of my favorites, though. I think that period really saw the most innovative and intricate designs to come out of the house.
And I want the Chanel ski goggles. I may not ski well, but I will take the gold medal in ski style.
You talked about fashion being a place where people express themselves. It’s also an area where people can begin collecting at a more approachable price point than, say, lots of contemporary art. Do you see many young people thinking about fashion this way?
Yes, what’s interesting about a sale like this is that it speaks to more than just your established collector base. It speaks to Gen Z and millennials, and says, “We know you love vintage fashion and shop at places like Tradesy. Come to us because we are the experts.” These are the new collectors who will also consign their items later on, so again, it’s all part of a circular fashion economy.
By the way, we counted. You said you want seven items from the auction, so now you’re going to have to give up twenty-one pieces from your wardrobe.
That was all theoretical! But please give me the details of whoever buys that incredible million-dollar necklace so I can befriend them.
