Audemars Piguet: Beyond the Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet stands as one of the most revered names in haute horology, with a legacy that extends far beyond the groundbreaking Royal Oak. Established in 1875 in Le Brassus, Switzerland, by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, the brand quickly gained recognition for its technical mastery and dedication to innovation. From the earliest perpetual calendars and minute repeaters to ultra-thin movements, Audemars Piguet has continuously pushed the boundaries of watchmaking.

Though the Royal Oak revolutionized the industry in 1972, defining the luxury sports watch category, Audemars Piguet's heritage is steeped in far more than just this iconic design. The brand has consistently produced highly complicated and collectible timepieces that showcase its unparalleled craftsmanship and ingenuity. Below, we explore some of Audemars Piguet’s most notable watches beyond the Royal Oak, highlighting their artistry, mechanical excellence, and historical significance.

This Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie sold for 825,000 HKD in April 2023. This timepiece was once regarded as one of the most complex and revered complications ever created. A grande sonnerie automatically chimes the hours and quarters every 15 minutes, while the petite sonnerie chimes the hours without repeating the quarters. This watch also features a minute repeater, activated by a pusher at 11 o’clock, and a slide at 2 o’clock allows the wearer to switch between chiming modes or silence.

Encased in a 38.5mm pink gold case and produced in a highly exclusive series of just 50 pieces, this remarkable timepiece drew significant attention at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Hong Kong. Its rarity and complexity reinforce Audemars Piguet’s reputation as a pioneer in high-complication watchmaking.

This Audemars Piguet Répétition Minutes John Schaeffer Reference 25881 sold for 108,000 GBP in May 2024.

In 1907, Audemars Piguet crafted its first minute repeater wristwatch for American industrialist John Schaeffer, housed in a distinctive cushion-shaped case. Over a century later, the modern reinterpretation of this watch maintains its iconic silhouette while incorporating a mesmerizing minute repeater mechanism.

Limited to just 10 pieces, this extraordinary model features a 33.5mm platinum case and a captivating purple dial. Most notably, it showcases the ‘Star Wheel’ system, an innovative satellite hour display using three sapphire disks with rotating hour indicators. As each disk moves into position, it aligns with the minute track at 12 o’clock, creating a dynamic and visually stunning time display. This revolutionary mechanism was groundbreaking when first introduced and remains a testament to Audemars Piguet’s inventive spirit.

Achieving a sale price of 239,400 USD in December 2022—far surpassing its 80,000 USD estimate—this Jules Audemars Grande Sonnerie exemplifies Audemars Piguet’s expertise in striking complications. The watch features a carillon mechanism, which enhances the traditional minute repeater function by using three hammers to produce a more intricate and melodious chime. Additionally, its dynamograph function allows real-time monitoring of the mainspring barrel’s torque, ensuring optimal performance.

Housed in a 39mm platinum case, this timepiece was accompanied by a unique miniature piano presentation box, reinforcing its status as a collector’s dream.

This Audemars Piguet Repetition Minutes 'Piece Unique' sold for 120,000 USD in June 2022. In 1892, Audemars Piguet made history by creating the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch, originally designed as a pendant watch before being adapted for the wrist.

This particular watch celebrates that legacy while also showcasing another of the brand’s notable innovations—skeletonization. Audemars Piguet was the first watchmaker to develop a skeletonized wristwatch in 1934, a technique it has continued to refine ever since. Encased in pink gold and created to commemorate the brand’s 125th anniversary, this unique piece is engraved with "Piece Unique 125 ans" on the case back, making it a truly special collector’s item.

Selling for 76,200 CHF in May 2024—nearly doubling its high estimate—this Audemars Piguet 'N°001' Reference 5548PT holds historical significance in the brand’s fight to preserve mechanical watchmaking during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 80s.

At a time when quartz movements threatened the future of traditional watchmaking, Audemars Piguet remained steadfast in its commitment to craftsmanship. The brand introduced the reference 5548 in 1978, pairing a perpetual calendar complication with an automatic movement. This model remained in production until approximately 1991, proving the enduring appeal of mechanical watches.

Numbered "1" out of a limited edition of 32 platinum pieces, this watch is highly sought after by collectors. It retains its original blue ‘Tuscan’ dial and comes with a digital extract from Audemars Piguet’s archives, a setting pin, and its original presentation case—making it a true grail piece for enthusiasts.

This Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Reference 26393OR.OO.A002KB.01 sold for 228,600 HKD in October 2023.

Launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection marked a bold new chapter for Audemars Piguet, embracing contemporary design while paying homage to the brand’s heritage. Featuring an avant-garde case construction with open lugs and a curved sapphire crystal, the Code 11.59 is a modern reinterpretation of classic watchmaking. The middle case subtly echoes the octagonal form of the Royal Oak, bridging past and present.

While the Royal Oak remains Audemars Piguet’s most recognized creation, the brand’s legacy extends far beyond a single design. From groundbreaking complications like the minute repeater and grande sonnerie to innovative display systems such as the Star Wheel, Audemars Piguet continues to push the boundaries of horology.

These remarkable timepieces showcase not only the brand’s technical prowess but also its artistic ingenuity, ensuring that Audemars Piguet remains at the forefront of fine watchmaking. Whether through historical tributes, limited edition masterpieces, or avant-garde contemporary designs, Audemars Piguet proves that its excellence is far from confined to a single collection.

While the Royal Oak defined the modern luxury sports watch, Audemars Piguet is equally revered for its grande complications, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars, which showcase the brand’s century-long dedication to craftsmanship and technical mastery.

Audemars Piguet was one of the first to miniaturize complex mechanisms like the minute repeater for wristwatches. Its innovative use of sound, motion, and precision ensures each piece is not only technically advanced but also artistically exceptional.

Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to fine watches, Sotheby’s offers a trusted, seamless way to buy and sell Audemars Piguet timepieces on the secondary market.

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