Louis Roederer, Cristal Brut 1988 (1 BT)

Louis Roederer, Cristal Brut 1988

Level above foil

54% Pinot Noir, 46% Chardonnay (a high percentage as this was a Chardonnay year) and 11% oak fermented. Some would call 1988 the last of the 'classic' years as from 1989 the climate entered a warm cycle. Cristal always displays a haunting bouquet and a texture of pure lace - in the 1988 there is also underlying vinosity and structure which make it awe-inspiring. In 2014, white truffles and dried apricots on the nose, plus orange skins that were almost smoky. Look out for the candied citrus too which comes from the Chardonnay. A real taste of marmalade with freshness and hazelnuts at the end. Liquid honeysuckle. Serena Sutcliffe, MW

1 bt (cn)