View full screen - View 1 of Lot 16. Reference 16550 Explorer II | A stainless steel automatic dual time wristwatch with cream dial, date and bracelet, Circa 1987.

Rolex

Reference 16550 Explorer II | A stainless steel automatic dual time wristwatch with cream dial, date and bracelet, Circa 1987

Auction Closed

December 6, 09:17 PM GMT

Estimate

15,000 - 25,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Dial: cream

Caliber: cal. 3085 automatic, 27 jewels

Case: stainless steel, screw-down case back

Case number: R'387'466

Closure: stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with double folding clasp 

Size: 40 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 190 mm

Signed: case, dial and movement

Box: yes

Papers: yes

Accessories: Rolex presentation box with outer packaging, Official Chronometer Certification (undated), booklet and hang tags

The 1980s marked a significant transitional phase for Rolex, as its professional models—including the Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master, and Explorer II—underwent key advancements to align with modern requirements. One of the most notable changes was the shift from plexiglass crystals to more durable sapphire crystals, alongside improvements to the movements, such as the addition of quickset date functionality and extended power reserves.


The Explorer II Reference 16550, produced from 1986 to 1989, is a prime example of this evolution. It served as the bridge between the earlier Ref. 1655 (1971–1985) and the subsequent Ref. 16570 (1989–2011). The 16550 introduced the robust Caliber 3085 movement, which allowed for independent adjustment of the GMT hand—a significant innovation for dual-time functionality.


In terms of aesthetics, the Ref. 16550 marked a departure from its predecessor's bold orange hand and unique indices, opting instead for a design closer to the GMT-Master and Submariner. It featured triangular, dot, and baton indices paired with more traditional hands, offering a sophisticated and versatile look. Additionally, at the time, the 16550 was the only Rolex sports watch to be offered with a white or cream dial.


The present example is particularly noteworthy as it boasts the rare and highly coveted "cream rail dial." The dial's creamy patina, resulting from a production quirk, contrasts beautifully with the lighter indices and hands, creating a visually striking appearance. This specific watch is in overall very good condition, with its case retaining impressive proportions and paired with its original bracelet, marked K7, confirming its production in late 1986.


Offered by its original owner and accompanied by its complete set of accessories, this is an outstanding opportunity to acquire a top-tier example of the Explorer II Ref. 16550 "cream rail dial."