A Kaftan and Headdress from the Court of Tipu Sultan, India, Mysore, late 18th Century

Sotheby's, New York, 13 January 1995, lots 1340, 1341

Philippe Missillier Collection no.106C

The present kaftan and headdress closely resemble the ‘war coat’ of Tipu Sultan (r.1751-99) now exhibited in the Grand Vestibule at Windsor Castle (Royal Collection Trust, inv. nos.RCIN 67213 and 67214; Susan Stronge, Tipu’s Tigers, London: V&A Publishing, 2009, p.26, fig.21), which also consists of a padded kaftan and reinforced headdress. Although both items were looted at the siege of Seringapatam in May 1799, it is unclear if they constitute a set; while the helmet was presented to George III by Major Davis on 10 October 1800, immediately after the siege, the kaftan was not added to the royal collection until 1811, when General Sir John Cradock presented it to George IV, then prince regent.

Headdresses and war helmets from Mysore at the period of Tipu Sultan are known in several forms. All have a domed cap. A common characteristic is the extended protection for the nape of the neck, as here. A second headdress and kaftan in the Royal Collection with embroidered decoration (Royal Collection RCIN 67230; Susan Stronge, Tipu’s Tigers, London: V&A Publishing, 2009, pp.64-5, fig.67) and a headdress in the Royal Armouries, accompanied by a cloth body armour, both have this form of neck protection (Royal Armouries inv. no.XXVIA.139). An inner cap for a headdress, made of quilted fabric, together with a quilted cuirass, both reportedly taken at the siege of Seringapatam, is in the Victoria and Albert Museum (inv. no.3517 (IS) and 3518 (IS)). Some but not all have a metal nasal guard. The most recent headdress associated with Tipu Sultan to appear on the market was formerly in the Wigington Collection (Bonhams 21 April 2015, lot 149).

Garments from the court of Tipu Sultan are extremely rare. Published examples are in museums and collections, including the British Royal Collection (cited above), the National Army Museum, London, and the Royal Armouries. Few remain in private hands.