Attributed to Koch

Purchased from Christies Geneva, "Masterworks of Art Nouveau Jewellery", 15th May 1986, Lot 456. This jewel was originally accompanied by a fitted case from Koch (now mislaid).

For further information, see Royal Magazin, 30 November 2022, for an article featuring this pendant and a link to Türk's design sketch which may be found here.

Founded in 1879 by the brothers Robert (1852–1902) and Louis Koch (1862–1930), the prestigious German jeweller Koch rapidly established itself as one of the foremost luxury houses of the German Empire. During its existence the jewellery house achieved an exceptional standard of design and craftsmanship, distinguishing itself through finely articulated metalwork and an elegant aesthetic. Although Koch’s principal premises were in Frankfurt, the opening of a boutique in the fashionable spa town of Baden‑Baden further cemented its reputation among Europe’s elite.

During the Belle Époque, Koch became the preferred jeweller of Germany’s High Nobility, including the Imperial Family and continued to prosper well into the twentieth century, adapting its refined style to changing tastes before ultimately ceasing operations in 1987.

This jewel is an exquisite example of the beautiful platinum metalwork made by Koch. The design may be attributed to designer Ph. Türk, who was employed by Kreuter & Co, a leading workshop used by Koch until the First World War.