Patek Philippe

Antiquorum, Hong Kong, May 1989, Lot 349

Produced in the early 1950s, the Patek Philippe reference 2499, First Series, marks the inception of one of the most celebrated perpetual calendar chronographs ever created by the manufacture. In production for less than a decade, it is the rarest of all four series, known only in yellow and pink gold. Scholars estimate that fewer than 55 examples were made, placing the First Series firmly in the highest echelon of watch collecting.

Housing the same movement, calibre 13-130, as its predecessor, the reference 1518, the reference 2499 introduced a completely new and modernised case design. The First Series is instantly recognisable by its square chronograph pushers, setting it apart from later iterations, as well as by subtle differences depending on the casemaker, Vichet (Key no. 9) or Wenger (Key no. 1). The present example is fitted with a Wenger case measuring 37.5 mm in diameter, with gracefully downturned lugs and a bombé caseback. Wenger would later become the exclusive supplier of nearly all 2499 cases until 1985. While the case has been polished during its lifetime, it remains in attractive condition, with the fluting to the lugs—so defining of the model—still visible, and traces of a hallmark preserved to the side of the upper left lug. Importantly, the inside of the top left lug also retains the last three digits of the case number, “759.” The caseback further bears French import hallmarks, underscoring the watch’s international journey.

The dial retains beautifully raised hard enamel signatures, including a perfectly accented “È” in “Genève,” along with sharply defined scales throughout. Applied gold Arabic numerals are paired with a tachymeter scale calibrated in miles and a “Chemin de Fer” or railway-style date track, recalling the design of its predecessor, the reference 1518. The overall composition embodies the elegance, legibility, and balance that make the First Series so iconic.

Consigned by a prominent collector, the present wristwatch has not been seen on the market for 36 years, since it was last offered at auction in 1989. Preserved in the same condition since that time, it represents an exceptionally rare opportunity.

As one of the rarest and most historically significant perpetual calendar chronographs, this First Series 2499 offers collectors the chance to acquire a timepiece of extraordinary rarity, elegance, and provenance.