David Webb

A native of Asheville, North Carolina, David Webb apprenticed at his uncle's local factory and moved to New York while still a teenager to seek his fortune. He honed his skills designing and making jewellery on 47th Street where he met the business-savvy Nina Silberstein, who was an accountant at the time. Webb's designs were unique and he had the ability to customise jewels, which was not the norm within the jewellery industry at the time. Webb quickly established a small, but loyal following all over the United States. After several years of selling wholesale to high end department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Bonwit Teller, he turned to retail and in 1963 relocated to West 57th Street where his business was conducted by appointment only. Almost immediately and without any advertising, David Webb's creations caught the attention of socialites and celebrities and, by word of mouth, he was on his way to becoming one of New York's most prominent jewelers.

In addition to his formidable imagination, Webb had the instinct to sense the mood of the time and created jewels to reflect this. In the late 1960s, exuberant fashions called for colourful and dynamic accessories. His gold enamel animal bangles, dubbed a 'fantastic bestiary' by Vogue, helped earn him his first Coty Award, the fashion industry's highest honour. A decade later, he re-interpreted Art Deco jewellery on a grand scale, using carved rock crystal and black enamel, for the signature black and white look of the era, breaking the distinction between day and night jewellery, as shown in this lot. Dramatic pieces of hammered yellow gold, a staple of Webb’s repertoire, have remained in style since their inception. Stones such as coral, turquoise and lapis, as well as jade purchased on trips to Asia, attest to Webb's ability to integrate these often exotic elements into contemporary design. Lot 303 is a brilliant example of this. Referred to in Women's Wear Daily as 'the Faberge of today', he helped revive the art of enamelling and placed craftsmanship high on his list of priorities. Finally, Webb’s concern was for the final design, rather than the sum of its parts and to set, rather than follow, trends.

David Webb jewellery is always highly sought after at auction. Over the years, Sotheby's has had the privilege of offering several famous collections, including jewels from the Duchess of Windsor, Clare Boothe Luce and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, each containing wonderful examples of Webb’s talent. Webb also produced unique gifts of state given to the White House during the Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon administrations, crafted from American materials. David Webb jewels have been featured in almost every fashion magazine in America and have appeared numerous times on the cover of Town and Country adorning various socialites and celebrities. Movie icons such as Doris Day, Susan Hayward and Lana Turner wore Webb jewels during late 1950s and early 60s in such films as Pillow Talk, Midnight Lace, Back Street and Portrait in Black. Testifying to the timelessness of Webb’s creations, countless Hollywood stars continue to select his dramatic and sculptural creations as the perfect accessory to their red-carpet look.

Although Webb passed away in 1975 at the age of 49, his legacy is very much alive in his salon on Madison Avenue.

Sotheby’s is proud to offer lot 303 from this important private collection, which perfectly represents all of the elements of David Webbs’ design.