Bulgari

Lady's gold, diamond and ruby wristwatch, 'Serpenti'

VAT applies to hammer price and buyer's premium

Auction Closed

November 8, 06:50 PM GMT

Estimate

145,000 - 185,000 CHF

Lot Details

Description

Property of a Lady

Lady's gold, diamond and ruby wristwatch, 'Serpenti', Bulgari, 1960s

Designed as a coiled serpent, the scales enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds, the head and tail embellished with circular-cut, pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, the eyes decorated with circular rubies, the mouth opening to reveal a watch dial with baton indicators set with single-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 110mm, expandable, signed Bulgari, numbered, the dial signed Jaeger Le Coultre, Italian assay marks for platinum and gold, one small diamond deficient, case stamped Bulgari.

Accompanied by an Amanda Triossi certificate of authenticity.

cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari, Exhibiition Catalogue 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Skira 2011.

cf: Marion Fasel, Bulgari Serpenti Collection, Assouline 2013.

cf: Alba Cappellieri, Bulgari: Serpenti: The Power of Metamorphosis, Silvana Editoriale 2022.

SERPENTI

The snake, a symbol of wisdom, rebirth and eternity has been worn since Antiquity as an empowering and protective talisman. In the 1940s, inspired by Rome’s rich history, Bulgari reinterpreted the serpent symbol. They designed the first piece of their iconic ‘Serpenti’ collection as a three-coil gold snake wristwatch with a jewelled head concealing the dial. Driven by its success, many variations using dazzling combinations of enamels and gemstones were created from the 1950s onwards. The Seventies will later mark a turn for the collection as naturalistic snakes give way to geometric designs, using abstract dial shapes. Ever since, similarly to a snake’s eternal rebirth, Bulgari unveils new ‘Serpenti’ creations every year whilst remaining true to their codes: glamorous colours, precious materials and innovative craftsmanship. Over the years and after countless red carpets the mystical and hypnotic gaze of the Bulgari serpent has seduced many icons, winding its way onto the wrist of Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Vreeland and many more.