Cartier, London

Cartier, London

Maxi Oval

A rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70

Dial: white dial signed Cartier London, stretched radial Roman numerals, slim blued steel épée hands

Calibre: 7’’’ oval calibre K535 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Flector shock absorber

Movement number: numbered to main plate 2’001’535

Case: 18k yellow gold stretched and curved oval case, rounded bezel, case back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark

Case number: hand stamped 9’162

Closure: brown beige unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold deployant buckle, London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped 9’162

Size: 52 mm length x 22.5 mm width

Accessories: none

The Cartier London Maxi Oval is among the most celebrated creations from Cartier’s Bond Street atelier, a masterpiece of bold design and uncompromising craftsmanship. Introduced in the late 1960s, the Maxi Oval epitomised the dynamic energy of the era, drawing inspiration from the revolutionary spirit that defined London at the time. Dramatically larger than most wristwatches of the period, particularly those with a traditional dress aesthetic, its impressive size made it an unmistakable statement piece, while the model’s innovative design secured its status as an artistic triumph.

The Maxi Oval emerged during the Swinging Sixties, a time when London was the epicentre of cultural innovation and youthful rebellion. Icons such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Twiggy embodied the spirit of the decade, while designers like Mary Quant revolutionised fashion with daring and playful styles. Cartier London mirrored this creativity and experimentation in its watchmaking, producing avant-garde designs that pushed boundaries. The Maxi Oval, alongside other Cartier Bond Street icons like the Crash and Pebble, captured this ethos, transforming functional timepieces into provocative statements of individuality.

Cartier London’s designers of the late 1960s and early 1970s embraced fluid, deconstructed, and asymmetrical shapes, a creative approach that placed their watches at the forefront of design innovation. Models like the Maxi Oval, the Crash, and the Pebble defined this era of remarkable artistry, as Cartier London challenged and reimagined traditional watchmaking norms. Like its contemporaries, the Maxi Oval features Vendôme-style T-bar lugs affixed to the case back, a thoughtful design choice that conceals the lugs, ensuring the watch’s silhouette remains visually uninterrupted. The result is an elongated, curved oval form that seamlessly blends elegance with modernity.

The sinuous curves of the bezel flow downwards, converging with the case back into a deeply concave form that allows the watch to hug the wrist in an almost organic fashion. This curvature not only enhances comfort but also imbues the watch with a sculptural, dynamic quality. Adding to its distinctiveness are the exaggerated Roman numerals that stretch dramatically across the dial, amplifying the sense of scale and reinforcing the watch’s avant-garde character. By reinterpreting a traditional horological element to complement its bold proportions, Cartier London successfully bridged the gap between classic elegance and contemporary innovation.