A tomesode [formal kimono for a woman] with embroidered Queen crest | Showa period, circa 1960s - 1970s

One of the many striking facets of Freddie’s collection is the large number of oversized kimono, many with long sleeves (furisode, traditionally for use by unmarried girls/ women). Freddie wore Japanese textiles during some of his performances, but most of these kimono where part of his private world, a number still sporting their price tags and some in original wrapping. The vibrant colours and patterns, the kimono as well as outer robes (uchikake) and white silk formal robes for brides, and the few male kimono with family crests as well as a stunning example of a male summer kimono made from hemp are just part of this considerable treasure trove. Other kimono in the collection reveal a range of techniques from woven gold thread designs, yuzen painting, stencil, embroidery and dye. There are also a few haori, short kimono-style jacket for men with black silk on the exterior and a family crest sporting beautifully designed interiors with designs of samurai and other scenes hidden from public view. In addition to the kimono are an equally compelling gathering of brocade obi (silk woven belts) with bold patterning, some in gold and bright colours and one in darker colours with a fascinating modern take on 8th-century imperial designs. The kimono would have been purchased somewhere between 1975 to 1986, but a few examples appear to be considerably older in date.

The paper tags on a number of kimono reveal a variety of prices and references to two specific shops, Atelier Ayahata and Hayashi Kimono. The Akasaka, Tokyo-based Atelier Ayahata taught how to wear and enjoy kimono, dressed models for television and commercials and sold a variety of kimono. This store closed its Tokyo doors in 2003 and moved the shop to Ms. Ayahata’s hometown of Kurume. Many of Freddie’s other kimono were purchased from Hayashi Kimono who until recently had a shop in the international arcade below the railway tracks in Yurakucho, Tokyo next to the Imperial Hotel and currently run an international garment trade online. The store Hayashi Kimono located as it was in an alley possibly reminded Freddie of earlier days when he would scour London’s West End weekend markets with his then partner and lifelong close friend Mary Austin. Freddie attended Ealing Art College in the late 1960s and acquired sewing, painting, and other artistic skills which he put to use in his home, and which most certainly influenced his art collection. The kimono are a vibrant reminder of Freddie’s appreciation of colour, textures and patterns. A common reoccurring theme on many of the kimono are depictions of exotic birds such as phoenix, peacock, and cranes. Animal themes, particularly bird, and carp (koi) appear to be something that Freddie was drawn to on multiple media.