Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch 梵克雅寶隱密式鑲嵌紅寶石配鑽石別針

Auction Closed

December 7, 08:52 PM GMT

Estimate

300,000 - 500,000 USD

Lot Details

Description

Exceptional Jewels from a Prominent American Collector

Van Cleef & Arpels | Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Designed as a flower centered by round diamonds, the petals embellished with calibré-cut rubies, the detachable stem and leaves set with marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds, signed V.C.A, numbered N.Y. 44020-1; circa 1970.

Van Cleef & Arpels was granted the French patent for its “serti mystérieux” or “mystery-setting” in 1933, a technique that was originally limited to flat surfaces. The process takes no less than 300 hours to complete, requiring months of work by a crew of artisanal craftsmen to produce a single jewel. Rubies and sapphires, favored for this type of design due to their hardness, are selected for uniformity of color, originally in square or rectangular cuts. However, later on a new technique was patented and perfected by Van Cleef & Arpels which allowed jewelers to use other cuts such as triangles, trapeziums or polygons in order to fill in spaces and create curved areas with graceful transitions. This breakthrough allowed for a variety of dimensional forms beyond just a flat surface. The secret to the “mystery setting” technique is the precision with which the stones are cut so they be slotted into a gold wire framework which is only visible from the underside. The result can be observed in the ruby and diamond flower brooch offered here, where the monochromatic mosaic of pure color is fused together without any noticeable metal. Van Cleef & Arpels mystery-set jewels are prized by buyers and sellers the world over for their iconic design and the quality and perfection of their craftsmanship.