Princess Diana's ‘Warm and Wonderful’ Sheep Jumper, 1981

Lady Diana Spencer captured the world’s attention with her engagement to Prince Charles and highly anticipated marriage into the British royal family. One of the impending Princess’ most enticing features was her approach to fashion which differed greatly from that of her predecessors and challenged societal expectations. Established through generations as a means to convey status and strict adherence to protocol, the royal family was tightly associated with conservative, formal, and traditional attire.

Fashion of the 1980s is defined by expressive styles with exaggerated silhouettes in bold colors and prints and was utilized to assert one’s identity. Diana’s style broke the mold by reflecting the changing social climate and embracing evolving perceptions of femininity. Her style is characterized as sophisticated and relatable; combining high-end designer pieces with more attainable apparel resonated with a wider audience. In turn, she would emerge as a prominent figure in mainstream media, leading to a wave of imitation and admiration that remains steadfast to this day, and would solidify the Princess as an icon in fashion history.

Diana’s influence was fueled by consistent and overwhelming media coverage, and her style became a perpetual conversation topic. The media's portrayal of Diana’s fashion choices highlights the role of media as fashion gatekeepers that shape public opinion, create trends, and influence consumer behavior. There are a few cases such as, “The Revenge Dress” and “The Sheep Jumper”, that garnered so much attention, the impact bubbled over into sociocultural discourse.

The way a simple garment evolves into a cultural phenomenon is via the perfect cocktail of circumstance and purpose. Whether intentionally or not, what did Diana communicate to the public when she dressed for dinner at the Serpentine Gallery or a polo match?

At a polo match in June of 1981, a newly engaged Lady Diana Spencer wore a red jumper with a whimsical black and white sheep motif: one of the first designs by Sally Muir and Joanna Osborne of Warm and Wonderful knitwear established in 1979.

One Sunday morning, while casually buying a newspaper, the designers saw the advertisement of a lifetime; one they would later accredit as the stratospheric launch of their small business. A few weeks later, a letter was received from Buckingham Palace politely explaining that Diana had damaged her much-loved sheep jumper and requested either a repair or replacement. A new jumper was knitted entirely and they received a thank you letter from her private secretary, Oliver Everett. Shortly thereafter, in 1983, the now Princess of Wales wore the new jumper to another polo match, styling it with sharp white jeans, a large white collar, and a thin black ribbon tie. Though unsure to this day, the designers assume Diana was given the jumper by the mother of one of her page boys.

Fashion outlets highlighted the sweater, dissecting its design and discussing its cultural significance. This exposure not only amplified the popularity of the Sheep Jumper but also influenced the broader fashion landscape. The media's endorsement of the garment as a must-have item influenced consumer preferences, leading to a shift in demand and subsequent production of similar designs by fashion brands. The cultural impact of this moment from the 1980s is exemplified by the head of Rowing Blazers, Jack Carlson, who in 2020, requested to partner with the original designers and license the sheep design to be reproduced for his own fashion line. The business partners reported an outstanding response from consumers, emphasizing the immortality of Diana’s taste and her influence on popular culture.

In an attempt to keep up with demand, the designers assumed the original had been repaired and sent to a customer… until March of 2023. Joanna was in the attic searching for an old pattern amongst 2,000 unfulfilled designs and spotted a small box. Inside, along with an old cotton bedspread, was a red sheep jumper. With excitement and disbelief, the designers dared to wonder if this was Diana’s returned sheep jumper. Further investigation convinced the team: the damaged cuff, the shape, the single sheep at the shoulders, tiny variations in the sheep’s eyes which were individually sewn on… In conjunction with a photo matched authentication by Sotheby’s, this lost sheep jumper found in an attic is confirmed to be the original sheep jumper worn by Princess Diana over 40 years ago.

What was it about this sweater that captivated millions of commentators and protected the design against the test of time? Was it the cultural connotations of the sheep motif that could offer an idea of what contributes to its significance?

There is great power in confirming public perception and the sheep motif amplified Diana’s “Lady of the People” title. The sheep pattern could be interpreted as a nod to British agricultural history; A celebration of the countryside that also lends itself to creating a sense of groundedness. Connection to the simpler aspects of life perpetuated relatability and helped bridge the gap between royal and public spheres. Moreover, sheep are often linked to concepts of innocence, gentleness, and purity. Unconscious associations that align with her compassionate and kind demeanor, emphasize her role as a mother and committed philanthropist. In other words, the perfect British princess.

Princess Diana of Wales did something no other royal had done before her: contrasting the opulence and formality often associated with the monarchy. The choice to wear a design that subverted traditional royal standards communicated her intention to embrace her own identity; presenting herself as a modern and relatable royal figure who was not going to be a victim of convention. Over time, Diana's style evolved, reflecting her personal growth and changing circumstances. From her early years as a shy and demure royal to her later years as a confident and independent woman, her fashion choices mirrored her journey and personality. She consistently pushed boundaries, experimented with different styles, and used fashion as a means of self-expression, capturing the attention of the world and leaving a mark on the fashion world.