short teaser paying tribute to Cheung's memorable look in "Happy Together" curated by Wong Kar Wai

Heartbreak Tango - Yellow Jacket

"In the traditions of Chinese opera, a character’s costume shapes his look. The costume is not just what he wears - it also defines a character.

It works differently in cinema. From Marilyn Monroe's white dress, Chow Yun-fat’s black trench coat to Bruce Lee's yellow tracksuit, a costume not only defines a character, but it can also recall a presence. Over time, it can even stand on its own as a timeless symbol.

The first time Leslie put on his yellow leather jacket was during our first fitting in Buenos Aires. I was there standing behind him when he checked himself in front of the mirror. It was his habit before facing the audience, because he always wanted to offer his best look.

From my experience of working with him, I had a theory: sometimes it would be more interesting to look at him from the other side, where occasionally, one could trace his solitude behind the flashlights. That afternoon, from Leslie’s back, I instantly recognized the solitude of Ho Po-Wing.

A few weeks later, the silhouette of Ho Po-Wing’s back swayed undecidedly into the empty concourse at a train station in Buenos Aires. In one shot, Ho Po-Wing clutched his jacket to his chest, like he was warming himself in the cold night of the Argentinian winter. Behind the monitor, the shot looked like a solo tango. That night, his partner was the yellow jacket.

I have always kept this yellow jacket, because it symbolizes a memorable presence: tenderness, rebellion and solitude.”

- Wong Kar Wai

© 1997 BLOCK 2 PICTURES INC. © 2019 JET TONE CONTENTS INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVE (image by Wing Shya)

Sotheby's Hong Kong is proud to present one of the important highlight from the Wong Kar Wai x Sotheby's collaboration - the “Heartbreak Tango – Yellow Jacket” (Lot 1037), the iconic yellow jacket worn by Leslie Cheung, star of the film “Happy Together” (1997). The signature masterpiece by Wong Kar Wai won Best Director at the 1997 Cannes Film Festival, marking the first time a Chinese director had won this award. Depicting the love story of a male couple living in Argentina and starring the legendary Cheung as Ho Po-Wing, the film was ground-breaking at the time. Scenes showing Cheung wearing the leather jacket remain a classic for fans, and the jacket, which has been preserved in the Jet Tone Archive since the release of the film 25 years ago, is in excellent condition.

Featuring art direction and costume design by William Chang, one of Hong Kong most renowned costume designers and a long-time collaborator of Wong, “Happy Together” was nominated for Best Costume and Make-up Design at the Hong Kong Film Awards. Not only does “Heartbreak Tango – Yellow Jacket” represent Wong and Chang’s painstaking effort to tailor the iconic look of Ho Po-Wing, but it also manifests the irresistible charisma of the most legendary pop icon of his generation.

「每一件經典戲服都是一個符號; 最終都會獨立於角色, 成為時代記憶。」
王家衛

本季晚拍,蘇富比非常榮幸能夠呈獻王家衛的電影《春光乍洩》中,由一代影壇、樂壇傳奇張國榮先生,所飾演的男主角「何寶榮」之經典戲服 -《傷心探戈 - 黃皮衣》(拍品編號1037)。《春光乍洩》攝於1997年,王家衛憑此經典鉅作獲頒第五十屆康城影展「最佳導演」大獎,成為首位華人獲此殊榮。這齣敍述男同性伴侶的愛情故事不但題材大膽,而且寓意深刻,在當時即引起全球哄動,戲中飾演男主角「何寶榮」的更是一代傳奇巨星張國榮,在華人以至國際影迷與樂迷心目中,有著無可替代的地位;他在戲中身穿皮衣的形象,更堪稱影壇經典;此件皮衣自1997年電影拍攝完畢後,一直珍藏於「澤東庫藏」,歷經近四分一世紀,依然完好如初,如今重現公眾面前,意義非凡。

戲服符號 獨立於時代的永恆記憶

「每一件經典戲服都是一個符號:夢露的白裙子,Mark哥的黑風衣,李小龍的黃色運動衣……最終都會獨立於角色,成為時代記憶。中國傳統戲曲裡,角色的造型叫扮相,登場被稱為亮相。相,不單指穿什麼,更多是指精神狀態,是氣質。

張國榮第一次穿上這件皮衣,是在阿根廷。造型的時候他習慣站在鏡前,我剛好站在他背後。演員登場前都會照鏡子,因為要以最完美的扮相面向觀眾。張國榮也是一樣。觀眾看到的是他永遠迷人的正面,我更喜歡繞到他背後,偶爾會看到煙花後的落寞——這是我在和他合作多年後的發現。

幾個星期後,在布宜諾斯艾利斯的火車站裡,出現了何寶榮的背影,獨自踟躕於夜深人靜的大堂角落。何寶榮一個人的時候,喜歡抱著那件皮衣,像在為自己取暖。那天晚上,有一刻,他把皮衣抱在懷裡。遠看過去,彷彿是一場單人探戈。他的舞伴,是他的黃皮衣。

我一直留著這件黃皮衣。因為它象徵著曾經的存在;溫柔、叛逆,和煙花背後的落寞。」

— 王家衛

王家衛服裝於王導的電影世界裡,是極其重要的細節和視覺元素,既烘托人物的身分、年齡、個性,亦渲染著角色所身處的文化背景及氣氛。香港首屈一指的美術指導及服裝設計師張叔平,多年來與王家衛導演合作無間,憑藉《春光乍洩》提名第十七屆香港金像獎最佳服裝造型設計,《傷心探戈-黃皮衣》正是戲中最具標誌性的造型,不僅標誌著王導及其夢幻團隊對創作一絲不茍的匠心,更負載導演與演員之間的惺惺相惜及深厚情誼;如導演親述,皮衣象徵著張國榮先生的傳奇存在,以及其至情至性的坦然流露。王家衛導演亦特意為《傷心探戈 – 黃皮衣》剪輯短片,與環球影迷及藏家一同回首幕幕扣人心弦的經典場面,重溫張國榮先生在銀幕上的風姿,致敬一代巨星的經典造型。