Since antiquity, adornments for the head has held special meanings across different cultures and civilizations. From humble materials such as flowers and leaves made into wreaths for loved ones, to precious metals and magnificent gems that graced the heads of kings and queens – the celebration of the diadem has been universal throughout history. Often, they were symbols of rank and honour, such as ceremonial wreaths that were given to winners in competitions. Over time, the tiara gradually weaved a strong symbolic association with romance. The 18th century painting by Jean-Baptiste Greuze depicts a Roman maiden kneeling under Cupid, the god of desire and affection. In return, she receives a floral diadem that symbolizes the crowning of love.
This beautiful Cartier diamond tiara from the 1930s was originally owned by the late Lady Smith, wife of Sir John Smith. He was a well-known banker and philanthropist who was prominent for many decades in heritage organisations which were dedicated to saving outstanding British architecture. His wife Christian Carnegy was the daughter of a Henderson and her youth was spent in Angus, Scotland, after which she read English at St Anne’s College, Oxford. With a shared passion for art and heritage, the couple founded the Landmark Trust. Sir John became the Member of Parliament for Westminster in the 1970s. Inherited from her mother, Lady Smith wore this tiara as a form of a necklace on grand occasions held for the Queen at the Buckingham Palace, as well as several State Openings of Parliament and State Banquets.
Another important example of a Cartier tiara made in the 1930s is a lotus blossom motif jewel, also decorated fully with diamonds. It was purchased by the Aga Khan for Her Highness the Begum Aga Khan in 1934. Wonderfully adorned as a graduated series of palmette and arrow-head motifs, the tiara can be worn in a few different ways, including a necklace as well as a brooch using the central panel. Offered together with the fitted Cartier case for the jewel, this convertible tiara together with its provenance would be a great addition to a jewellery connoisseur’s collection.
自古以來,頭飾在不同文化中都有特殊的意義,無論是以簡單材料如花葉編成、用來送贈愛人的花冠,還是以貴重金屬和寶石製成的帝后寶冠皆然。人們會在重要場合上戴冠冕或其他頭飾,通常象徵身份或榮譽,例如在比賽中送給獲勝者的花環。隨著時間推移,頭冠逐漸成為一種別具浪漫情懷的飾物。十八世紀畫家讓·巴蒂斯·格魯茲的一幅作品描繪一個跪在愛神丘比特之下的羅馬少女,她獲得象徵愛情加冕的花冠作為回報。
這頂來自 1930 年代的卡地亞鑽石冠冕原屬約翰·史密斯爵士的妻子、已故的史密斯爵士夫人。史密斯爵士是一位著名的銀行家兼慈善家,致力保育重要英國建築數十載因而享有盛譽。史密斯爵士夫人原名克里斯蒂安·卡內基,來自亨德森家族,青年時代居於蘇格蘭安格斯,後於牛津聖安妮學院修讀英國文學。他們基於對藝術及文化遺產的熱情,共同創辦信託基金Landmark Trust。史密斯爵士在 1970 年代成為英國國會議員。這頂冠冕是夫人母親的遺贈,她曾在多個重要時刻將冠冕的部分改作項鏈佩戴,包括在白金漢宮為英女王舉行的盛大場合,還有數次國會開幕儀式和國宴。
可與這頂來源顯赫的冠冕比較的是一件同樣在1930 年代製作的卡地亞蓮花鑽石冠冕。1934年,印度的伊朗裔皇族阿迦汗把它贈予阿迦汗王妃。這次上拍的冠冕以棕櫚和箭頭圖案為裝飾,中間部份可分拆出來作項鏈或胸針佩戴,並附一個卡地亞特製的首飾盒。