St. Agur, the rich blue cheese from the Auvergne, that works equally well with Château Margaux, Riesling or even Port.

LONDON - There should be no straightjacket approach to the ‘art’ of matching wine with food. The current Zeitgeist seems to be try anything, even if only once. Sometimes, of course, this open-minded flexibility comes about as one empties a bottle and then goes in search of the next – the theory of force majeure in operation.

This was certainly the case the other evening at home when we finished dinner with a lovely chunk of St.Agur, that flavoury blue cheese from the Auvergne – it never suffers from the fact that no Saint called Agur has ever been traced. It had gone very well with a superb bottle of Château Margaux 1978, but then it was just as tempting with a great Riesling from the Mosel, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2007 from the renowned J.J.Prüm. This went down remarkably well, so mein husband then produced some Noval 40 Year Old Tawny Port, which was also lip-licking good. Purists eat your heart out!

The imposing façade of Château Margaux.

I suspect they would have been even more shocked when I was left a grass-widow the other evening and finished a bottle of Bollinger with a chicken and fruit curry, moving swiftly on to the island of Santorini’s ‘volcanic’ dry white wine made by Hatzidakis from the Assyrtiko grape. You could call it gastronomic kicking over the traces.

Contemporay Mexican restuarnt, Dulce Patria in the Polanco district of Mexico City.

And for modern Mexican food (try the Dulce Patria restaurant in the Polanco district of Mexico City), the country’s very own Mariatinto from Baja California’s Valle de Guadalupe was delicious. I think it is made from a heady mixture of Tempranillo, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cabernet and Merlot, but I was so happy with its fresh, fruity impact that I just gulped it. For once my wine and food matching was ‘ethnically correct’ – and I even started with a margarita!