The Temperley Collection at London Fashion Week AW14. Photography by Shaun James Cox, British Fashion Council.
LONDON – The Fashion Week season is just ending having taken in New York, London, Milan and Paris over the last two months. As always, the shows have brought new ideas and fresh takes on existing styles and it's always intriguing to see how jewellery and couture are combined. As a jewellery historian it's also fascinating to see the influences of the past informing both the jewels and fashion of the present. US Vogue ran a piece on their website titled "The Not-So-Secret Influence of Cubism and Art Deco During Milan Fashion Week," citing collections by Gucci and Prada, Fendi and Fausto Puglisi, Tods and Armani.
Fyodor Golan at London Fashion Week AW14. Photography by Shaun James Cox, British Fashion Council.
We have some striking pieces in the March sale of Fine Jewels in London that illustrate the love affair with monochrome that peaked in 'the Art Deco' period in the 1920s and '30s. This is one of the most popular periods in the history of jewellery and even today couturiers remain inspired by it. As Vogue said: "It's exciting to see a season pulling so creatively from history; none of these looks or collections feels at all dated. And though they can certainly trace some of their roots to a time (or times) long gone, the resurfacing of these themes illustrates that fashion needs the past – more as a fuel, rather than elixir – as it jets forever into the future."
Gem-Set, Enamel and Diamond Vanity Case, Lacloche Frères, 1920s. Estimate £8,000–12,000.
The Roaring '20s created striking designs that broke down boundaries. One example from our sale is this beautifully crafted vanity case from the 1920s by Lacloche Frères. Here we see both the quality of workmanship that is a given for this period, and the innovative design that still has a daring quality, which was perfectly suited to the ‘flapper’ and the 21st century fashionista alike.
Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week AW14. Photography by Christopher James, British Fashion Council.