Lot 88
  • 88

PERIDOT, PEARL AND ENAMEL PENDANT, PHILLIPS BROS.

Estimate
8,000 - 12,000 USD
bidding is closed

Description

Centered on a rectangular step-cut peridot within an openwork border applied with black and white piqué enamel, accented by four button-shaped pearls measuring approximately 4.8 to 4.5 mm, and supporting a drop-shaped pearl measuring approximately 5.6 mm, with maker's mark for Phillips Bros.; circa 1869-1874.

Provenance

Sotheby's New York, December 6, 2006, Castellani & Giuliano, The Judith H. Siegel Collection, lot 120.

Exhibited

Castellani and Giuliano, Revivalist Jewellers of the Nineteenth Century, Wartski, London, March 12-17, 1984, no. 106.

Condition

In good condition, especially given the age of the piece, with surface scratches and a few small areas of discoloration to the reverse of the mounting commensurate with age, evidence of solder to the reverse, and a very small area of loss to the filigree on the reverse of the pearl drop cap, noticeable only upon close inspection. Mounting tests as 18 karat gold. The peridot, estimated to weigh approximately 13.50 carats, is medium yellowish green, slightly included, with abrasions and a few light scratches to the crown noticeable under 10x magnification. The slightly baroque drop-shaped pearl and slightly off-round button-shaped pearls are of white body color, with very soft to soft rose and aubergine overtones, good luster, and with minor blemishing including slightly wrinkled skins and ringing. The enamel in fair to good condition, with numerous small areas of loss, not noticeable when worn. Length approximately 2⅝ inches including bail.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Please note that the pearls have not been tested for natural origin. According to Geoffrey Munn, it is likely that this pendant was made by Giuliano to the order of Phillips and was sold by them in their shop on Cockspur Street between 1869 and 1874. The work on this jewel is almost identical to that of a piece bearing Giuliano's maker's mark, offered as lot 105 in Castellani & Giuliano, The Judith H. Siegel Collection, Sotheby's New York, December 6, 2006.