Lot 387
  • 387

IMPORTANT EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDANT/BROOCH COMBINATION, CARTIER, 1927

Estimate
150,000 - 250,000 CHF
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Description

The surmount set with a carved emerald flower, framed with circular-cut diamonds, supporting a plaque set with an hexagonal polished emerald and calibré-cut emeralds, supporting three emerald drops with onyx rondelle crowns and circular-cut diamond terminals, unsigned, brooch fitting detachable, one small emerald deficient.

Literature

Cf.: Hans Nadelhoffer, Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, London, 1984, pg. 183 for a photograph of the pendant in its original form, as part of a necklace.

Condition

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 108686, stating that the polished emeralds, measuring approximately 17.70 x 15.70 x 6.90mm, 37.00 x 31.50 x 10.00mm, 13.20 x 20.65 x 25.50mm, 14.50 x 21.65 x 27.00mm and 11.70 x 20.55 x 26.10mm, are of Colombian origin, with a minor to a moderate amount of oil in fissures. Emeralds with typical inclusions some surface reaching, some abrasions and nicks. One small calibré-cut emerald deficient. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total 4.50 - 5.50 carats, on average H-I colour, SI clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 95 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

As the image in Hans Nadelhoffers book, Cartier Jeweler Extraordinary, shows, this pendant was originally the central element of an important necklace composed of a diamond link chain flanked by pierced cabochon emeralds, dated 1927, a perfect example of Cartier's Indian style. This pendant also calls to mind the brooch worn by Marjorie Merriweather Post, captured in a painting by Giulio de Blaas in 1929. Cartier's use of mughal stones in jewellery was an important aspect of their Indian style, these designs were dominant between 1913 and 1930.



Accompanied by SSEF report no. 108686, stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with a minor to a moderate amount of oil in fissures.