- 1717
AN IMPORTANT RUBY, DIAMOND AND ONYX BANGLE, 'PANTHÈRE', CARTIER
Estimate
8,000,000 - 9,600,000 HKD
bidding is closed
Description
Designed as a pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond panther with articulated paws and rotating head, decorated with cabochon onyx spots, nose and pear-shaped emerald eyes, the tail encircling a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 10.01 carats, mounted in platinum, inner circumference approximately 150mm, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and maker's marks, Swiss assay marks.
Condition
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 19021001, dated 11 February 2019, stating that the ruby is of Mozambican origin, with no indication of heating. Also accompanied by GRS report no. GRS2014-097042, dated 15 September 2014, stating that the ruby is of Mozambican origin, with no indication of thermal treatment, vivid red colour (GRS type "pigeon's blood"). For further details, please refer to the reports. Also accompanied by a photocopy of the design sketch from Cartier. Inscribed Pt950, with French and Swiss assay marks for platinum. Signed Cartier and numbered AVI169, with French maker's mark. Ruby is of medium dark red and strong saturation, under 10x magnification there are minor typical inclusions, a few nicks and a small cavity at the pavilion but not visible when worn. Diamonds estimated to weigh approximately 23.00 - 26.00 carats, are bright and lively. Onyxes are in very good condition, a few with minute scratches. Emeralds of medium dark green colour and strong saturation, under 10x magnification, there are a few typical inclusions and a few nicks. Signs of minor wear to the metal, overall in very good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Catalogue Note
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 19021001, dated 11 February 2019, stating that the ruby is of Mozambican origin, with no indications of heating. Also accompanied by a gemmological report.
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MESMERISING MOZAMBIQUE
Mozambique is located in South Eastern Africa and has always been an important source of coloured stones but only in recent years have rubies been discovered. Mozambique rubies are mined in the Msaqizi area of the Niassa Province and Montepuez in the Cabo Delgado Province of Mozambique, bordering the famous gem-rich Mozambique Belt running North – South through East Africa.
Recognized for the brilliant red hue and high transparency of rubies produced, Mozambique rubies have rapidly become one of the most coveted ruby red colours, and as a result, are one of the more valuable rubies sourced from African mines. In order to satisfy growing demand, within the last ten years, eighty percent of the global ruby output would originate from Mozambique.
The rich iron content in a Mozambique ruby shifts the colour away from purple towards a straight red, producing colours competitive to the prized pigeon blood red rubies of Burma. Though generally the presence of iron mutes the fiery fluorescence in a gemstone, the content is not as abundant as the iron found in Thai or Cambodian rubies; placing Mozambique rubies within the perfect equilibrium to produce the most desirable red hue.
The panther, symbolic of Cartier, was first inspired when Louis Cartier commissioned a painting, Woman With A Panther, by George Barbier in 1914. Booming alongside the panther craze of the 20th century, Cartier incorporated the panther’s distinct print into a bracelet wristwatch, which would become the first ever piece of the legendary ‘Panthère’ collection. Cartier ‘Panthère’ blossomed as a result of the love story and partnership between Louis Cartier and Jean Toussaint. In 1917, Cartier gifted Toussaint an onyx vanity case that featured the maison’s first full-body panther, paying homage to Toussaint’s nickname “La Panthère” esteemed for her elegance. Toussaint eventually became the artistic director of Cartier high Jewellery in 1933 incorporating the panther motif and adding a dynamic sense to their creations.
Notable collectors such as the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton have each commissioned Cartier for their own exclusive ‘Panthère’ jewels. Lot 1717 is no different; the unique panther bangle was commissioned to enhance the beauty of the Mozambique ruby which centers the creation.
Mozambique rubies differ from Burmese rubies in their strength of colour. The majority of Mogok stones tend to improve in colour along with size, whereas Mozambique rubies are known to excel in the smaller sizes, with stones over ten carats tending to be darker. Lot 1717 showcases a Mozambique ruby over 10 carats that maintains an attractive, saturated red colour. Combined with the iconic ‘Panthère’ bangle mounting by Cartier, it is as striking and collectible as a jewel can be.
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MESMERISING MOZAMBIQUE
Mozambique is located in South Eastern Africa and has always been an important source of coloured stones but only in recent years have rubies been discovered. Mozambique rubies are mined in the Msaqizi area of the Niassa Province and Montepuez in the Cabo Delgado Province of Mozambique, bordering the famous gem-rich Mozambique Belt running North – South through East Africa.
Recognized for the brilliant red hue and high transparency of rubies produced, Mozambique rubies have rapidly become one of the most coveted ruby red colours, and as a result, are one of the more valuable rubies sourced from African mines. In order to satisfy growing demand, within the last ten years, eighty percent of the global ruby output would originate from Mozambique.
The rich iron content in a Mozambique ruby shifts the colour away from purple towards a straight red, producing colours competitive to the prized pigeon blood red rubies of Burma. Though generally the presence of iron mutes the fiery fluorescence in a gemstone, the content is not as abundant as the iron found in Thai or Cambodian rubies; placing Mozambique rubies within the perfect equilibrium to produce the most desirable red hue.
The panther, symbolic of Cartier, was first inspired when Louis Cartier commissioned a painting, Woman With A Panther, by George Barbier in 1914. Booming alongside the panther craze of the 20th century, Cartier incorporated the panther’s distinct print into a bracelet wristwatch, which would become the first ever piece of the legendary ‘Panthère’ collection. Cartier ‘Panthère’ blossomed as a result of the love story and partnership between Louis Cartier and Jean Toussaint. In 1917, Cartier gifted Toussaint an onyx vanity case that featured the maison’s first full-body panther, paying homage to Toussaint’s nickname “La Panthère” esteemed for her elegance. Toussaint eventually became the artistic director of Cartier high Jewellery in 1933 incorporating the panther motif and adding a dynamic sense to their creations.
Notable collectors such as the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton have each commissioned Cartier for their own exclusive ‘Panthère’ jewels. Lot 1717 is no different; the unique panther bangle was commissioned to enhance the beauty of the Mozambique ruby which centers the creation.
Mozambique rubies differ from Burmese rubies in their strength of colour. The majority of Mogok stones tend to improve in colour along with size, whereas Mozambique rubies are known to excel in the smaller sizes, with stones over ten carats tending to be darker. Lot 1717 showcases a Mozambique ruby over 10 carats that maintains an attractive, saturated red colour. Combined with the iconic ‘Panthère’ bangle mounting by Cartier, it is as striking and collectible as a jewel can be.