SPECTACULAR GEM SET AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, BULGARI, 1969-1970

Supporting a pendant set with an emerald weighing 127.35 carats carved in the shape of a fruit, the links set with cabochon rubies, amethyst, citrines, topazes, turquoise and emeralds, enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 860mm, separates into four segments, may be worn as two bracelets and a necklace, bracelet lengths approximately 180mm, necklace lengths approximately 420mm or 520mm, signed Bulgari, fitted case stamped Bulgari.

Cf.: Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, Bulgari, New York, 1996, pg. 93 for an illustration and the design of this sautoir.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 101616, stating that the emerald, weighing 127.35 carats, measuring 38.84 x 38.15 x 13.45mm, is of Colombian origin, with a moderate amount of oil in fissures. Pendant and necklace signed BVLGARI, the three detachable segments unsigned. Stamped 750 for 18 carat gold. For more information on the central emerald, please refer to the SSEF report. Gemstones well matched in colour, of medium strong saturation, some with typical surface-reaching inclusions, few scratches and nicks. Remaining emeralds stated to weigh a total of 38.56 carats, three small emeralds chipped. Rubies stated to weigh a total of 69.14 carats, some scratches, nicks and few chips.Turquoise stated to weigh a total of 42.30 carats. Diamonds stated to weigh a total of 17.97 carats, on average G-H colour, VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Signs of wear to the metal consistent with age and use. Clasps secure, safety catches. Overall, in very good condition. Total gross weight approximately 432 grams. Fitted case stamped Bulgari.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The angular forms appearing on this sautoir are a characteristic of Bulgari's first designs in the 1970s. During these years, the major sources of inspiration of the Italian maker were based on Indian and Egyptian influences. In this case, the carved emerald pendant is somehow reminiscent of the Indian traditional boteh motif. The choice of cabochons rather than faceted stones for the sautoir is a feature of Indian derivation too, exploited by numerous French and American jewellers at this point in time. This sautoir is a perfect example that illustrates Bulgari's taste and style, using various colourful gemstones and diamonds in yellow gold.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 101616, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with a moderate amount of oil in fissures.