Parisian Chic (Lot 1864-1887)
The signature on a piece of jewellery makes it traceable, identifiable and recognizable in the history of its jewellery house. Jewellers began signing their work during the Arts & Crafts and Art Noveau periods whereby the aim of the movement was to revive an old tradition of producing jewellery designs that were manufactured by the same craftsman. An early example of such identification was of the likes of René Lalique and Fabergé who had the ongoing practice of signing all of their bejewelled creations. Soon, the process was popularized when all the top maisons and small ateliers alike began marking their pieces.
Jewels bearing signatures from the renowned houses of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari, to name but a few, could transform in value as jewellery crafted by these brands often represented unparalleled standards of craftsmanship and pioneering designs.
Smaller independent Parisian designers such as René Boivin and Suzanne Belperron also established themselves as contemporaries alongside prominent jewellery leaders. Belperron insisted that ‘my style is my signature’, where her designs were so original and distinguishable that she found no need to sign her pieces. However, her ability to play with aesthetic influences and the discovery of her personal archives which contained a vast collection of drawings sketches, models and appointment orders ensures the authenticity, traceability and provenance of her works.
This beautifully curated selection of jewels primarily from the 1950s and 1960s from a distinguished private collection reflects a connoisseur’s appreciation for collecting iconic jewels. Reflecting an understanding of the significance of the periods that these jewels represent, these stylish pieces commemorate the spirit of the 60s and the versatility of ingenious designs that transform themselves into chic, wearable, timeless treasures.
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