Lot 238
  • 238

ROLEX | 'MILSUB' SUBMARINER, REF 5517STAINLESS STEEL MILITARY WRISTWATCH MADE FOR THE BRITISH ARMED FORCESCIRCA 1978

Estimate
150,000 - 300,000 CHF
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Description

  • Rolex
  • 'MILSUB' SUBMARINER, REF 5517STAINLESS STEEL MILITARY WRISTWATCH MADE FOR THE BRITISH ARMED FORCESCIRCA 1978
Dial: blackCalibre: cal. 1520 automatic, 26 jewelsCase: stainless steel Oyster, screw-down crown and back Case number: 5'339'864Closure: associated stainless steel buckleDimensions: 39.5mmSigned: case, dial and movement Accessories: Rolex presentation case

Condition

MVT: running at the time of cataloguing. Hack features functioning. CASE: in good condition. The band with a brushed finish as per military specification. Some small signs of wear, very minor pin head dings to the band visible under magnification. Case numbers very crisp between the lugs and case number repeated on the inside case back. DIAL: in very good condition. The lume plots have aged and taken on a very even patina. The hands oxidised and lume has darkened over time.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping."

Catalogue Note

The measurement of time is important to all, however it is fair to state that it is more important to some than to others. This is certainly true of people employed by the armed forces who, understandably, demand levels of accuracy and utility that perhaps surpass the requirements of all other occupations. As such it stands to reason that wristwatches are a vastly valuable tool. Throughout the 1970s Rolex supplied watches to the British Military for use by the Special Forces, namely the Rolex Submariner. Over the course of the decade approximately as few as 1200 pieces were manufactured for the Armed Forces. Utilising references 5513 & 5517 the watches provided were altered to meet strict military specifications and as such are especially collectable.  

Whether such a watch is right or wrong is the subject of fierce debate however some elements are clear: All military Submariner dials are marked with a letter T above the depth rating, the lugs feature fixed bars, and the case backs engraved with a Military issue number, supply date and the famous ‘Broad Arrow’. On some 5513, and all 5517 (as with the present lot) Rolex fitted wider ‘Sword’ hands and a new bezel calibrated in its entirety to 60 units. Other reference 5513 models came with any combination of hands or bezels. Dubbed the Milsub by collectors, the modifications made have now become renowned in the vintage watch world. What’s more, given the conditions and environments that they were made to endure, examples in good condition, unchanged since production, are incredibly sought after and examples featuring fully calibrated bezels and ‘Sword’ hands even more so.

The watch above, then, ticks every box for the discerning eye of the collector. This reference 5517 can certainly be considered a superb opportunity to add a very fine piece to any collection.