Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, France

Centering an emerald-cut diamond weighing 10.27 carats, flanked by six baguette sapphires, size 6, with French assay and partial French workshop marks; circa 1920.

In good condition with wear to the mounting commensurate with age; evidence of sizing. Partial maker's mark at base of shank exterior. The interior of one shoulder faintly reads "MONTER"; the opposing shoulder interior with illegible lettering. The sapphires are medium-deep blue and eye-clean. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2175733898 stating that the diamond is D color, VS1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating that the diamond has been determined to be Type lla.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2175733898 stating that the diamond is D color, VS1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating that the diamond has been determined to be Type lla.

Art Deco design is a powerful balance of bold form and restraint. Strong, at times soaring shapes—whether found in a Ruhlmann cabinet, a Georg Jensen cocktail shaker, or the Chrysler building—maintain a controlled linearity and limited color palette. The jewelers of the 1920s and ‘30s translated this aesthetic into the use of step-cut stones, including the now timeless emerald cut as well as the baguette cut, often applied to colored accent stones. 

The ring featured here is striking in its simplicity. Its elongated emerald-cut diamond is tightly flanked by vertically arranged sapphires guiding the eye in a sweeping direction. The whiter-than-white appearance of the diamond is attributable to a complete lack of nitrogen, placing the stone within the prized Type IIa category. Many of the world’s most famous diamonds are Type IIa—the Koh-i-Noor perhaps being the best-known example—and were discovered centuries ago in the legendary mines of Golconda.