Lot 199
  • 199

18 Karat Gold, Platinum and Diamond Necklace and Bracelet, Designed by George Headley, Los Angeles, the Necklace Retailed by Paul Flato, the Bracelet Retailed by Laykin et Cie

Estimate
100,000 - 150,000 USD
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Description

  • gold, platinum, diamond
The flexible necklace designed as a graduated line of flowering vines accented by an off-set diamond bow, the leaves and bow set with old mine and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 30.10 carats, length 15½ inches; circa 1941; the bracelet of similar design set with old mine and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 14.15 carats, length 6 7/8  inches; circa 1943.

Provenance

Formerly in the Collection of Norma Shearer.

Exhibited

Diamond Divas 2008, Diamond Museum, Antwerp, April 11 - June 8, 2008.

George W. Headley Retrospective, The Headley-Whitney Museum, Lexington, Kentucky, September 19, 2006 - January 7, 2007.

Literature

Elizabeth Irvine Bray, Paul Flato: Jeweler to the Stars, page 48-49.

Annette Trapert, The Power of Glamour, page 81.

Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata, The Jeweled Garden: A Colorful History of Gems, Jewels and Nature, page 106.

Vinciane Van Grotenhuis van Onstein, Diamond Divas, pages 157 and 203.

Vogue, New York, August 1, 1941, pages 28-29.

Condition

In good condition. Expertly crafted and three-dimensional. Both necklace and bracelet are fully articulated. The diamonds are predominantly G-I color range, a few J-K examples, and range from VS-I clarity. Some of the diamonds have small chips due to usual wear. There are a couple of small areas of solder repair on the reverse of the bracelet. Both pieces have safety catches at the clasps.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

The present necklace, bought by Norma Shearer around 1941, was designed by George Headley as a cascade of flowers, ivy leaves and bows. It appeared in a 1941 edition of Vogue which is where Norma Shearer may have originally seen it. Or, she might have noted the necklace in Flato's shop on Sunset Boulevard. Either way, Shearer was one of many Hollywood icons that looked to Flato for their finest jewels. Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Katherine Hepburn and Ginger Rogers are some of Paul Flato's other notable clients.

Canadian-born Norma Shearer (1902-1983) was determined to be an actress after seeing a vaudeville show on her ninth birthday. With steely determination and hard work she achieved her dreams, signing a contract with MGM in 1923. Within four years Shearer made a total of 13 silent films for MGM that were box office hits. Unlike many stars of the 1920s, Shearer made the transition from silent films to 'talkies,' with ease, helped by her melodic medium-pitched voice. Usually portraying a sophisticated, liberated woman, Shearer's most notable role was in The Divorcee, which earned her an Oscar for Best Actress in 1930. Throughout her career she would be nominated for a total of six Academy Awards, with Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo as her main competitors.

Created at a time when both jeweler and star were in their heyday, this set is a sublime example of Flato at his best and most dramatic.