Lot 323
  • 323

Natural pearl and diamond necklace

Estimate
200,000 - 300,000 CHF
Log in to view results
bidding is closed

Description

  • natural pearl, diamond
Composed of three rows of graduated natural pearls measuring from approximately 6.05 to 9.15mm, to a clasp set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, shortest length approximately 405mm.

Provenance

Aline de Rothschild (1865-1909), who married Sir Edward Albert Sassoon, 2nd Baronet (1896-1912), then to their son, Sir Philip Sassoon, 3rd Baronet (1888-1939), to his sister, Sybil Sassoon (1894-1989), who married George Cholmondeley, Earl of Rocksavage, later Marquess of Cholmondeley (1883-1968), thence by descent.

Condition

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 88662, stating that one hundred and forty-five pearls measuring from approximately 6.05 to 9.15mm were found to be natural, saltwater, and one was found to be natural, freshwater.Pearls of white to cream body colour, partly with rosé and green overtones, with good skin and lustre, some pinpoints and growth marks; for further details on the pearls, please refer to the SSEF report. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 2.00 - 2.50 carats, on average I-J colour, I clarity. Signs of normal wear to the metal, clasp secure, safety catch. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 97 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

Catalogue Note

This necklace derives from a very large necklace presented to Aline de Rothschild by Edward Sassoon upon their marriage in 1887. Peter Stansky, in his book Sassoon, The Worlds of Philip & Sybil, mentioned them: "Aline de Rothschild and Edward Sassoon's marriage was performed in Paris with the chorus of the Paris Opera entertaining the 1,200 guests. Edward presented Aline with a pearl necklace worth £9,000 [approximately £ 900,000 in today's purchasing terms]. Edward's namesake, the Prince, later Edward VII, named a yacht in honour of the bride. Aline Sassoon later became well known for her collection of emerald, sapphire and gold jewellery". 

Damien Collins, in his book Charmed Life. The Phenomenal World of Philip Sassoon, talked about the pearls: "Following his mother's death in 1909, Philip was given the string of pearls that Edward had presented to Aline on their wedding day, in expectation that he would one day give them to his own bride. Instead, he often kept them in his pocket, rubbing them occasionally - in order, he would tell his friends, 'to keep them alive'. Charlie Chaplin remembered him doing this when he stayed with him in 1921, and recalls it in his autobiography". 

Philip's sister, Sybil, Countess of Rocksavage, later Marchioness of Cholmondeley, a style icon of the era, was painted by Sargent in 1923, wearing the necklace in Spanish costume. In due course she inherited it and then transformed it into two necklaces, one long single strand and the three row necklace offered in this sale. In a 1984 photograph of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and the Marchioness of Cholmondeley, on the occasion of her 90th birthday, the Marchioness is wearing the present necklace. The necklace was left by Sybil to her daughter, Lady Aline Cholmondeley, thence by descent to the present owner.