Lot 493
  • 493

Very important and unique gem set and diamond demi-parure, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s

1,440,000 - 2,400,000 CHF
1,570,000 CHF
bidding is closed


  • Van Cleef & Arpels
  • Rubies, diamonds, emeralds, pearls, gold
Comprising: a necklace of Indian inspiration, set with variously shaped emeralds and rubies, seed pearls, drop-shaped and a carved emerald, circular-cut, cushion-shaped and a pear-shaped diamond, supporting a detachable pendant set with a cabochon pear-shaped emerald, circular-cut rubies, similarly cut, cushion- and drop-shaped emeralds, circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, may be worn as a brooch, necklace length approximately 490mm, French maker's mark for Van Cleef & Arpels, pendant signed V.C.A., numbered; and a pair of ear clips, each surmount set with a cabochon emerald, circular-cut rubies and diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant of chandelier design, set with circular-cut rubies, similarly and single-cut diamonds, and drop-shaped emeralds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, dated 1966, a few stones deficient, fitted case stamped Van Cleef & Arpels.


Sotheby's Saint Moritz, February 1993, lot 696.


Cf.: David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, Suffolk, 2014, pg. 424 for an illustration of this demi-parure.

Cf.: P. Proddow and alii, American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition, New York, 1987, pg. 153 for an illustration of this demi-parure. 

Catalogue Note

This magnificent emerald, ruby, diamond and cultured pearl necklace and earrings is one of the finest examples of the highly chromatic jewellery produced by Van Cleef and Arpels in the late 1960s. Here a traditional Indian 'Thali' collar has been transformed into a unique and spectacular necklace; the earrings are equally influenced by Eastern designs. The necklace, manufactured and reworked in 1965 and 1966, is perhaps one of the earliest example of the re-emergence of Indian-inspired jewels.