18 Karat Gold, Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond 'Ballerina' Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, New York

The winged ballerina decorated with a tiara and floral bouquet, her costume designed with an openwork full skirt, the face set with a rose-cut diamond, further highlighted with round sapphires, rubies and emeralds, gross weight approximately 12 dwts, signed Van Cleef & Arpels N.Y., numbered 12948; circa 1947.

In very good condition with gentle wear to the mounting. The medium blue sapphires, medium-deep purplish red rubies and medium green emeralds are decorative in quality. The near colorless, rose-cut diamond is approximately SI clarity. Measures 2 3/8 x 1 1/2 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby’s is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby’s is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby’s does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD “AS IS” IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

A brooch of similar design is illustrated in Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry by Evelyne Possémé, page 133.

Fashioned from polished gold and decorated with glittering gems, the brooches offered here are premiere examples of the exquisite ‘Ballerina’ brooches made famous by Van Cleef & Arpels. Designer Maurice Duvalet, who had previously worked at Cartier and Charlton & Co., was the first to envision the dance-inspired designs. Likely influenced by Louis Arpels’ enthusiasm for the ballet and opera, Duvalet drew his inspiration from paintings and photographs of famed ballerinas Maria Camargo and Anna Pavlova and worked with manufacturer John Rubel to bring his visions to life. These cheerful brooches brought light to a world of jewelry collectors whose spirits were battered by the Great Depression and World Wars. Bringing an emotional impact to those they adorned, the designs reminded their wearers and admirers of happier, more cheerful times.

Although the ballerina motif is one that has been consistently revisited by Van Cleef & Arpels, those made during the 1940s are arguably the most rare and exquisite. Ballerinas in a variety of forms and poses were created – lot 246, the pair of Spanish-style ballerinas complete with fans and hair ornaments, are a prime example of this. Lot 247, completed by a set of openwork fairy wings (as this was the age of Disney’s Fantasia, after all) is a quintessentially New York ballerina. Whereas the 'Ballerinas' produced in Van Cleef’s Parisian workshops were noted for their use of colored stones, rubies and turquoise in particular, those made with Duvalet’s visions in New York were noted for their rose-cut diamond faces (diamonds purportedly repurposed from the Spanish Crown Jewels) and patriotic color schemes. Lot 247 utilizes these motifs as well as two other iconic design elements that were in Van Cleef’s stronghold during this time. First is the intricate use of colored stones as seen in the firms’ ‘Hawaii’ jewels, and in the skillfully crafted corsage and tiara seen on lot 247. Second is the use of gold to mimic textiles, many lace-like in nature, seen here in the skirt. Inspired by historical ballet costumes but keeping current fashions in mind, the full skirt and pronounced cap sleeves seen in lot 247 serve to solidify this ballerina as a glamorous woman of the 1940s.

With intricate details all around, the ‘Ballerina’ brooches by Van Cleef & Arpels are best viewed when performing a pirouette. From the laces of their ballet slippers to their perfectly positioned legs and feet, these tiny dancers are a testament to the expert workmanship of one of jewelry’s most celebrated design houses.