Suite of 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Jewelry, Cartier, Paris

Comprising a tubogas-style bracelet, brooch, ring and earclips, each decorated with articulated clusters of spheres, the polished gold spheres topped by sugarloaf lapis lazuli cabochons and the pavé-set spheres topped by reverse-set square-cut diamonds, the square-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.30 carats, the old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 13.90 carats, bracelet length 6 7/8 inches, the bracelet, earclips and brooch signed Cartier, the bracelet, brooch and ring numbered HSA 2208, the bracelet numbered HSA 04389, the bracelet stamped JC for Jacques Cartier and with a maker's mark for Henri Heugas; 1937.

Denver Art Museum, Denver, Colorado: Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century, November 16, 2014-March 15, 2015.

Cartier in the 20th Century, Margaret Young-Sánchez et. al., page 205, figure 222.

All pieces in very good condition overall, especially considering the piece's age. Throughout, there is scratching to the gold spheres from the spheres rubbing against one another and this is mainly concentrated to those areas where they touch. There is slight wear to the lapis as well at the facet junctions and tips, displaying a few examples of small chips, commensurate with wear. The diamonds are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. The sugarloaf lapis lazuli cabochons range from an opaque bright blue to cobalt blue, with some exhibiting small flecks of pyrite. BRACELET: A few spheres' anchoring rings have become slightly open and it could be easily fixed by a jeweler. The tubogas-style band allows for movement and ease of wear. With French assay mark. Numbered 04389 not "HSA 04389" as written in the printed catalogue. BROOCH: Dimensions approximately 1 3/4 by 1 3/4 inches. RING: Very slight discoloration to the gold inside the shank, not visible when worn. EARCLIPS: Length approximately 1 3/8 inches, and further secured with screw-backs.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from Cartier stating that the bracelet is 'Cartier Paris, 1937.'

The world of high jewelry experienced a seismic shift in the second half of the 1930s. Flattened jewels laid out in precise symmetry faded into the background allowing dramatic works in yellow gold to emerge full of life, inspired by the organic and fantastical. In some cases, these jewels derived their energy most literally from the wearer, changing with every move to announce one’s arrival with a subtle tintinnabulation.

Cartier has always been ahead of the curve. The bracelet’s early appearance of a gas pipe band lends a suppleness that sharply diverges from the stolid geometry of the 1920s while ebullient clusters prefigure the dynamism of the Retro period. The berry-like quality of the beads is emphasized by crisply contoured lapis lazuli and diamonds, lending the suite an almost punk aesthetic, while the articulated settings anticipate the kinetic movement of 1970s. It is a rare grouping of objects, the cut and combination of materials not known to exist in any other suite dating to this period. More importantly, however, is the suite’s jeweled synesthesia that provides endless enjoyment to the owner.