Lot 340
  • 340

18 Karat Gold and Coral Brooch, Cartier, Paris

Estimate
25,000 - 35,000 USD
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Description

  • gold, coral
The polished gold safety pin with articulated gold beads decorated with sugarloaf coral cabochons, gross weight approximately 16 dwts, signed Cartier Paris, numbered 3985, with French assay and indistinct maker's marks; circa 1937.

Condition

In good condition with some evidence of discoloration to the gold beads, commensurate with age and wear. The sugarloaf coral cabochons range from a medium slightly reddish orange to pinkish orange, with some light nicking present. Gross weight approximately 16 dwts, length approximately 3 inches. Signed and numbered along the inner edge of the safety pin.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

A brooch of similar design, decorated with lapis lazuli, is illustrated in Art Deco Jewelry: 1920-1949 by Melissa Gabardi, page 209.

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits are required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.

This brooch exemplifies the impact of Surrealist art on Art Moderne jewelry. Using the form of the safety pin to resemble an everyday object, and using gold and coral beads that move when worn, this piece has a whimsical aspect to it that surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí trademarked. This piece also marks the popularity of yellow gold in jewels of this time; whereas Art Deco jewels were fashioned predominantly from platinum, the warm nature of yellow gold was again sought out during the Art Moderne years. Vogue featured a similar safety pin brooch by Cartier in a 1936 article titled, 'Modes and Manners in Modern Jewels,' speaking to the popularity of this style and its innovative design.