- 1890
Gem-Set and Diamond 'Renée Fleming Iris' Brooch, Tamsen Z by Ann Ziff
Estimate
620,000 - 780,000 HKD
bidding is closed
Description
- colored stone, diamond, white gold
Modelled as a cultivar from iris named 'Renée Fleming Iris', the petals pavé-set with circular-cut amethysts and yellow sapphires, to a stem pavé-set with circular-cut tsavorite garnets, embellished by similarly-cut diamonds, the amethysts, tsavorite garnets, diamonds and yellow sapphires together weighing approximately 15.50, 8.10, 7.60 and 1.60 carats respectively, mounted in 18 karat white gold.
Exhibited
"Natural Beauties: Jewelry from Art Nouveau to Now" at the Shelburne Museum in 2014.
Condition
Colour and Clarity: In our opinion, the amethysts are of intense purple hue, tsavorite garnets are intense yellowish green tone, and yellow sapphires are of medium intense saturation, all clean to naked eyes with lively brilliance. Colourless diamonds are about G to H colours, mostly VS clarity.
Condition: This brooch is modeled after a charming breed of iris, in honour of the celebrated sopranos, Renée Fleming. A unique design created by Tamsen Z, unsigned, fine workmanship, in very good condition.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Catalogue Note
THE VOICE OF EFFLORESCENCE
Nature, particularly the botanical world where beauty of chromatic flowers is manifold, has been a source of inspiration and expressed generously in jewellery since the 18th century during the Georgian period. With the discovery of the New World that came about in the mid-19th century and surging interests in the exotic flora from the unspoiled habitats in North America, European jewelers were experimenting with more three-dimensional and realistic portrayal of different flowers. It was at around the same time that North American painters extended their exploration to lush tropical forests in South America. By the end of the 19th century, this influence was heightened at the Paris Exposition of 1889 when the American firm of Charles Lewis Tiffany presented the famous group of twenty-five orchid brooches. With their naturalistic rendition, vibrant colours and flow of lines, these intricate masterpieces marked the beginning of floral motifs in jewels for the next decades to come, from the femme-fleur plique-a-jour enamels during Art Nouveau, to floral spray bouquets and basket of flowers in the 1950s.
As the history of flowers in fine jewellery develops and flourishes, certain species of flowers are now forever linked to world’s leading jewellery masters whenever we speak their names: orchids, camellia, daisy, lily of the valley, and rose de Noël just to name a few, many of which are symbols of feminine virtues and merits. Iris, with over hundreds of known varieties, symbolizes wisdom, hope, valour and purity. In jewellery, irises were often depicted as a single flower in profile, with a dominant blue or violet hue. Its delicate veins and petals with scalloping edges favour stylized curvilinear form underlining grace and femininity, seemingly pensive, but with a certain lightness to it. With this traditional formula as a backbone came this unique ‘Renée Fleming Iris’ brooch from Tamsen Z by Ann Ziff, which is bolder, more substantial and stunningly dramatic.
The creator of this arresting brooch, Ann Ziff, who is also the mastermind behind New York-based jewellery house Tamsen Z, is a self-taught jeweller who has a special gift to transform audacious mixes of colours and materials into unique pieces that are flamboyant and modern chic. This brooch is modelled after a charming cultivar of iris, created exclusively by hybridizer Heather Pryor in honour of Renée Fleming, and which has carried her name since 2004.
Arguably one of the most beloved and celebrated sopranos of our times, Renée Fleming was a recipient of both the National Medal of Arts and Grammy Award for Best Classical Vocal Solo in 2013. She frequently graces the world’s greatest opera stages and concert halls, and is also actively involved in education, writing and charity endeavors. Her consummate artistry, grace and beauty has been an inspiration not only for this brooch, but also to prominent artists such as Chuck Close and Robert Wilson, whose portraits of her were included in the Metropolitan Opera’s 2007 fundraising auction. She was also honoured by a fragrance designed for her named La Voce by Renée Fleming, and the dessert ‘La Diva Renée’ created by Master Chef Daniel Boulud.
Renée Fleming is a true embodiment of what an iris flower signifies and it is with this admiration and respect that her friend, Ann Ziff, created this one-of-a-kind brooch. The powerful and sensual vocalism of Renée Fleming is lyrically painted in the flowing lines of its petals, with a striking contrast between violet and yellow. What differentiates this design from the others is also how the flower is tackled in its frontal perspective without compromising its spatial qualities. This larger-than-life brooch is more than a demonstration of the designer’s artistic prowess; it is also a fine botanical jewellery piece that is representative of its time.
Nature, particularly the botanical world where beauty of chromatic flowers is manifold, has been a source of inspiration and expressed generously in jewellery since the 18th century during the Georgian period. With the discovery of the New World that came about in the mid-19th century and surging interests in the exotic flora from the unspoiled habitats in North America, European jewelers were experimenting with more three-dimensional and realistic portrayal of different flowers. It was at around the same time that North American painters extended their exploration to lush tropical forests in South America. By the end of the 19th century, this influence was heightened at the Paris Exposition of 1889 when the American firm of Charles Lewis Tiffany presented the famous group of twenty-five orchid brooches. With their naturalistic rendition, vibrant colours and flow of lines, these intricate masterpieces marked the beginning of floral motifs in jewels for the next decades to come, from the femme-fleur plique-a-jour enamels during Art Nouveau, to floral spray bouquets and basket of flowers in the 1950s.
As the history of flowers in fine jewellery develops and flourishes, certain species of flowers are now forever linked to world’s leading jewellery masters whenever we speak their names: orchids, camellia, daisy, lily of the valley, and rose de Noël just to name a few, many of which are symbols of feminine virtues and merits. Iris, with over hundreds of known varieties, symbolizes wisdom, hope, valour and purity. In jewellery, irises were often depicted as a single flower in profile, with a dominant blue or violet hue. Its delicate veins and petals with scalloping edges favour stylized curvilinear form underlining grace and femininity, seemingly pensive, but with a certain lightness to it. With this traditional formula as a backbone came this unique ‘Renée Fleming Iris’ brooch from Tamsen Z by Ann Ziff, which is bolder, more substantial and stunningly dramatic.
The creator of this arresting brooch, Ann Ziff, who is also the mastermind behind New York-based jewellery house Tamsen Z, is a self-taught jeweller who has a special gift to transform audacious mixes of colours and materials into unique pieces that are flamboyant and modern chic. This brooch is modelled after a charming cultivar of iris, created exclusively by hybridizer Heather Pryor in honour of Renée Fleming, and which has carried her name since 2004.
Arguably one of the most beloved and celebrated sopranos of our times, Renée Fleming was a recipient of both the National Medal of Arts and Grammy Award for Best Classical Vocal Solo in 2013. She frequently graces the world’s greatest opera stages and concert halls, and is also actively involved in education, writing and charity endeavors. Her consummate artistry, grace and beauty has been an inspiration not only for this brooch, but also to prominent artists such as Chuck Close and Robert Wilson, whose portraits of her were included in the Metropolitan Opera’s 2007 fundraising auction. She was also honoured by a fragrance designed for her named La Voce by Renée Fleming, and the dessert ‘La Diva Renée’ created by Master Chef Daniel Boulud.
Renée Fleming is a true embodiment of what an iris flower signifies and it is with this admiration and respect that her friend, Ann Ziff, created this one-of-a-kind brooch. The powerful and sensual vocalism of Renée Fleming is lyrically painted in the flowing lines of its petals, with a striking contrast between violet and yellow. What differentiates this design from the others is also how the flower is tackled in its frontal perspective without compromising its spatial qualities. This larger-than-life brooch is more than a demonstration of the designer’s artistic prowess; it is also a fine botanical jewellery piece that is representative of its time.