Lot 344
  • 344

Patek Philippe

Estimate
70,000 - 90,000 USD
Log in to view results
bidding is closed

Description

  • AN EXTREMELY RARE YELLOW GOLD WORLD TIME WRISTWATCH REF 1416 MVT 176122 CASE 618819 MADE IN 1939
  • unmarked leather, Yellow gold
  • diameter 31 mm
• 12''' HU nickel lever movement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic balance • two-part silvered dial, the raised central portion with Roman and baton indexes, the recessed two-tone outer portion indicating 24 hours with diurnal and nocturnal indication, trident hour hand • rotating Louis Cottier designed Heures Universelles bezel engraved with 29 world cities, claw-form lugs, snap-on case back with engraved inscription • case, dial and movement signed • with an 18k yellow gold Patek Philippe buckle

Condition

Movement running at time of cataloging, however not tested for the accuracy of time and may need service at the buyer's discretion. Case in excellent unpolished condition, all the edges preserved, extremely crisp. Very light surface scratches overall. Small nick to the underside of the top left lug. Case back with name engraved. For further information on engraving please call the department. Dial in very good condition, small mark at 7 o'clock below center arbor, very small loss of finish to the outside of the center dial, the rotating 24-hour ring with patina. Minute hand with small scuff. Movement with some discoloration to the edges. The present lot contains endangered species which is subject to restrictions upon international export. Accordingly, the strap for this item will be removed prior to shipment outside the United States.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping.

Important Notice regarding importation into the United States of Rolex watches
Sotheby's cannot arrange for the delivery of Rolex watches to the United States because U.S. laws restricts the import of Rolex watches. The buyer or a designated agent may collect the property in the country of sale."

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confirming the date of sale on May 2, 1940.

The First Ref. 1416

The present lot belongs to the extremely rarely-seen Reference 1416, a model believed by scholars to exist in only three examples in yellow gold. The other two have already appeared at auction, in 1999 and 2010. Reviewing the serial numbers of those examples, one notes that the present example was the first made of this exceedingly limited production run. It is also final piece to come to auction, having never been offered previously. 

Movement 176122 Case 618819: The present lot, with trident-style hour hand and 29 world cities on bezel
Movement 176123 Case 618820: Sold at Christie's, Geneva, lot 113, November 15, 2010 (with moon-style hour hand and 30 world cities on bezel)
Movement 176125 Case 618821: Sold at Antiquorum, Geneva, lot 617, April 24, 1999 (with moon-style hour hand and 30 world cities on bezel)

The original advertisement for this model illustrates characteristics unique only to the present example. It is thus reasonable to deduce that it is indeed this example illustrated, as its bezel lists 29 cities and it has a trident-style hour hand. 

Students of vintage world time wristwatches are best acquainted with the Ref. 1415, which was produced from 1939 to 1954, and is estimated to exist in about 115 pieces. With its teardrop lugs and relatively small size, it is easily recognized. The Ref. 1416 was made in 1939 and 1940 only, and features unusual claw-form lugs, which are striking and unlike virtually every other vintage Patek Philippe. 

The present example retains its original sharp lines in breathtaking unpolished condition. The claw-form lugs are sharp to the touch, perfectly linear from the front and crisply ovoid from the profile, where an untouched hallmark is as easily legible as the day it was struck. The rotating bezel features 29 world cities in black enamel, with a distinct and crisp faceted edge, again perfectly preserved here. The other two known examples listed above feature 30 cities each; the present example excludes 'Aden' (Yemen), making it a unique piece even in this rarefied group. 

The 'Heures Universelles' function of this model operates via the rotating bezel. When the bezel is rotated so that the home city is at the 12 o'clock position, and the watch is set to the local time zone, the 24-hour indication adjusts automatically so that one can see the current time in 41 world cities. Because the case, dial, and movement are all integral to the technical function of the watch, Louis Cottier, who was the creator of the World Time, supervised the production of each element.

Louis Cottier (1894-1996) was born in Carouge and attended the Horological School of Geneva before going to work for his father and horological mentor Emmanuel Cottier (1858-1930). Like his father, Cottier was a very talented mechanical genius and went on to develop numerous patents that changed the face of watchmaking. Reacting to the realities of the Great Depression, Cottier saw a niche in high-end watchmaking and focused his talents on the development of complicated watches. Foremost among these discoveries was his development of the world time mechanism in the 1930s. This invention would inspire some of the most iconic Patek Philippe complications. Indeed, the world time mechanism is one of the greatest successes of watchmaking, and Patek Philippe's contemporary offerings, such as Refs. 5110 and 5130 are clearly inspired from these early models.

Ref. 1416 is illustrated in Huber, M. & Banbery, A., Patek Philippe Wristwatches, p. 244.