18 Karat White Gold, Diamond and Lacquer Cuff-Bracelet, Cartier, Paris

The angled design in the form of a highly stylized bow, centering a diamond-set s-shaped motif, the central column set with five old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 5.90 carats, accented by smaller old European and old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 7.00 carats, internal circumference 6 inches, signed Cartier Paris, numbered 93838, with French assay and partial maker's marks; circa 1930. With signed, fitted and numbered box.

In good condition, with minor loss to the lacquer on the edges of the bracelet. The diamonds are predominantly approximately H-J color, SI clarity, one example approximately L-M color. Many of the diamonds exhibit chips to the girdle visible under magnification, as would be expected for diamonds of this time. The fitted box is also numbered 93838. Best fits a small to medium wrist and is somewhat expandable for ease of wear.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

With simplicity, straight lines, and geometry, the Art Deco era straightened Art Nouveau’s naturalistic curves. It highlighted the ascent of the skyscraper, the machine age, new trends in fashion, and exhibited a fascination with the exotic. At this time, lacquered works of art were very desirable. To capitalize on the fashion craze, Cartier created many small decorative objects accented with the finish such as lipstick holders and vases. By the 1930s, Cartier started using lacquer to fashion jewels such as rings, brooches, and bracelets, of which very few still exist.

By the mid-1930s, Cartier’s clients commissioned the firm to create jewels such as a white gold and black lacquer bracelet accompanied by a detachable diamond clip, featured on page 61 of Judy Rudoe’s Cartier: 1900-1939.  Using stones provided by the patron, Cartier also fashioned a pair of pyramid-shaped and diamond encrusted clip brooches affixed to a white metal and black lacquer band. Most likely, the original owner commissioned Cartier to refashion her antique diamonds into this one-of-a-kind lacquered piece of jewelry. The cuff-bracelet shown here is quite rare and comes with its custom-made fitted box.

Pieces of similar design are illustrated in Cartier: 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 61 and 330.