Lot 470
  • 470

Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, France

Estimate
60,000 - 80,000 USD
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Description

  • Van Cleef & Arpels
  • platinum, sapphire, diamond
The stylized bow set with cushion-cut sapphires weighing approximately 26.00 carats, accented by baguette diamonds weighing approximately 14.00 carats, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 46.306, with French assay and maker's marks; 1937.

Condition

In very good condition. The sapphires are a rich bright medium blue color and are slightly to moderately included. Diamonds are approximately E-F color and VVS-VS clarity. The brooch is more 3-dimensional than it appears in the printed catalogue. The diamond volute has a rippling effect as does the terminus of the sapphire volute. 4 inches in length. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 69409 stating that an excess of 50% of the sapphires tested at random are of Cambodian origin, with no indications of heating.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 69409 stating that an excess of 50% of the sapphires tested at random are of Cambodian origin, with no indications of heating.

This brooch is reminiscent of the designs presented by Van Cleef & Arpels during the 1937 International Exhibition of the Arts and Techniques of Modern Living. The jewelry portion of the exposition was presided over by Georges Fouquet. During this show jewels started to become less geometric and more voluminous and curved in form; the natural motifs that were so favored during the Art Deco period were present but less than in previous years.

It was during the 1937 exhibition that Van Cleef & Arpels presented their celebrated Mystery Set technique, where stones are set in such a manner that the metal becomes nearly invisible. 'Jarretière' bracelets fashioned from sapphires and rubies, similar in design to the present brooch, were formerly in the collections of style icons such as the Duchess of Windsor and Marlene Dietrich (the sapphire style from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor was known as the 'Marriage Contract' bracelet). Unique in form and versatile to wear, the present brooch represents a specific and celebrated moment in the history of Van Cleef & Arpels.

For additional information on the 1937 exposition see Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry, edited by Évelyne Possémé, pages 98-107.