Hardstone enamel and diamond bracelet, attributed to Ernst Paltscho, 1930s

Designed as four blue enamel square plaques, each applied with a motif of carved hardstone flowers, accented with single-cut diamonds, framed with millegrain-set lines of circular-cut diamonds, linked by carved open work onyx links and millegrain-set diamond batons, length approximately 185mm, unsigned, fitted case stamped Jul Hugle.

Cf:  C. Gere, "The Art of The Jeweller, A Catalogue of The Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum", Vol. I, p. 190, no 1178 and Vol. II, p. 319, no. 1178 and color plate 63, for examples of carved hardstone jewellery by Ernst Paltscho.

Cf: S. Tennenbaum and J Zapata, The Jeweled Garden, London, 2006, p. 83 for an illustration of a similar floral hardstone bracelet by Ernst Paltscho.  

Stamped 950 to clasp for platinum. Secure clasp with safety catch. Diamonds bright and lively with mixed colours and clarities. Total diamond weight approximately 5.50-6.50 carats. One onyx link with small chip to corner, three small flower heads with small chips to petals commensurate with age and wear. Case with scuffs and wear commensurate with age and catch no longer secure.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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Ernst Paltscho (1858-1929) founded the firm in 1899 in Vienna, Austria. Commissioned by the Greek Royal House, he was also patronized by many of the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy. His son Erwin joined the firm in 1918, and continued the business after his father's death. During the 1930s they became famous for their colourful carved hardstone jewels.