Ruby, diamond and enamel brooch, Philippe Wolfers, circa 1900

Designed as a winged insect, the wings applied with plique-à-jour enamel, the head, body and wings accented with an oval, two cabochon and calibré-cut rubies, and variously shaped diamonds of near colourless and yellow tints, maker's mark for Wolfers, inscribed EX. UNIQUE, brooch fitting detachable.

Cf: Marguerite de Cerval (Ed.), Dictionnaire International du Bijou, Paris, 1998, pg. 555 for further information on the maison Wolfers.

Cf: Shirley Bury, Jewellery 1789-1910, The International Era: Volume II, 1862-1910, Woodbridge, 1991, pg. 765 for an orchid hair ornament by Philippe Wolfers, dated 1900, of similar design.

Please note that the diamonds of yellowish tints have not been tested for natural colour. Maker's mark PW for Wolfers, inscribed EX. UNIQUE signifying that the piece is the only one of its kind. Oval ruby measuring approximately 8.95 x 6.25 x 2.65, calculated to weigh approximately 1.00 - 1.15 carats, with typical crystal inclusions. Smaller rubies well matched in colour, with a few minor nicks and cavities. One very small calibré-cut ruby missing from the top edge of wing. 'Plique-à-jour' enamel in good condition, with a few small areas with evidence of repair. The pear-shaped diamond measuring approximately 7.60 x 5.35 (depth not possible to measure due to the mounting), estimated to weigh less than 1.00 carat, G - H colour, SI clarity, as gauged and graded in collet-set mounting. Remaining diamonds bright and lively. Signs of wear to the metal consistent with age and use. In good condition. Brooch fitting detachable. Gross weight approximately 24 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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Founded in 1812, in Belgium, the Wolfers atelier produced jewels for several European royal courts. Phillipe Wolfers, born in 1858, attended drawing and sculpture classes at the Académie Royale des Beaux-Arts in Brussels, while learning the family trade of jewellery-goldsmithing. His interest in Japanese design and the burgeoning Art Nouveau movement was cemented by his visits to the Exposition in Vienna in 1873 and in Paris in 1889. From 1893 to 1905 he produced a catalogue of one hundred and fifty-two Art Nouveau works including vases, fans, lamps, sculptures and jewels. Often compared to his contemporary, René Lalique, his motifs were inspired by flora and fauna.