Platinum, Sapphire, Diamond and Emerald Ring, Charlton & Co.

The fluted cabochon sapphire measuring approximately 14.3 by 12.4 by 7.7 mm, the mounting accented by round diamonds weighing approximately .50 carat, further decorated with four cabochon emeralds, size 5¾, signed Charlton, numbered 2821A; circa 1928.

In good condition with light scratching and nicking to the mounting and thinning to the bottom of the shank commensurate with age. The sapphire is medium blue with the "velvety" texture expected from a Kashmiri stone. When worn, the sapphire presents as opaque to semi-translucent, but when off the finger and under direct light it presents as translucent to semi-transparent and reveals very minor color zoning. Light abrading to the highpoints of the fluting. Slightly loose in the mounting but secure. Taking into account the value and rarity of Kashmir sapphires, the fluted cutting style is unexpected and charmingly decadent. The emeralds are medium-light to medium green, lightly to moderately included with minor to moderate abrading. The diamonds are approximately G-H color, VS-SI clarity. Accompanied by GIA report no. 2151966861 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 61382 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2151966861 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 61382 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

John W. Charlton, opened his own business under the name of J.W. Charlton in 1909, later changing it to Charlton & Co. when Robert S. Chapin became his partner.  The shop was fashionably located in the heart of Manhattan at 634 Fifth Avenue, across from St. Patrick’s cathedral.  In 1919, upon Charlton’s retirement, his partners James Todd and Grant A. Peacock assumed the business.  In 1943, Grant A. Peacock acquired ownership of the company, and the Charlton archives.

The Charlton archives include designs similar to the ring offered here, dating from 1928/29. Sotheby’s is grateful to Kathleen Peacock Benchley, Grant A. Peacock Inc., for her assistance with this research.