Lot 1937
  • 1937

Very Fine Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earrings, Late 19th Century

Estimate
20,000,000 - 25,000,000 HKD
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Description

  • ruby, diamond, silver, gold
Of cluster design, each set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing approximately 6.80 and 6.70 carats respectively, within a border of ten cushion-shaped diamonds altogether weighing approximately 8.00 carats, mounted in silver-topped gold, post fitting, with pendant fittings.

Provenance

Formerly in the collection of Mary Duchess of Roxburghe, the daughter of Marquess and Marchioness of Crewe.

Literature

Illustrated: David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, Celebrating Jewellery, Suffolk, 2012, page16

Condition

Colour and Clarity: According to both the AGL and SSEF reports, the rubies are natural, of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Please refer to the reports for details. In our opinion, the rubies are of a homogeneous red colour, good saturation and brilliance, with some typical crystal inclusions, a few minor nicks, scratches and abrasion to facet junction. Diamonds are about I to J colours, SI clarity. Tarnish and scratches to metal commensurate with age and wear.Condition: In very good condition, extremely rare pair of antique, natural Burmese unheated rubies.IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please note that jadeite and rubies of Burmese origin and articles of jewellery containing jadeite or rubies of Burmese origin all less than 100 years old may not be imported into the US. The purchaser's inability to import any item into the U.S. or any other country as a result of these or other restrictions shall not justify cancellation or rescission of the sale or any delay in payment. Please check with the specialist department if you are uncertain as to whether a lot is subject to these import restrictions, or any other restrictions on importation or exportation.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by SSEF report numbered 54669, dated 29 September 2009, stating that the two rubies are of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no indications of heating.

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EXQUISITE RUBIES OF DUCHESS OF ROXBURGHE

A considerable portion of rubies seen in the market nowadays is often enhanced or heated to resemble this unique colour of Burmese rubies sought after by collectors all over the world. Yet, the finest Burmese rubies are of such breath-taking natural beauty that is in no need of artificial treatments and enhancements. This pair of ruby earrings spared of heat treatment testifies to this very truth. Each weighing over five carats, the stones possess a homogeneous red colour with good saturation afforded by a desirable clarity.  A single stone with a combination of all these outstanding qualities is indeed extremely scarce, thus the rarity of two such well-matched stones cannot be overemphasized.

To add to their eminent pedigree, this exquisite pair of ruby earrings was the property of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe. She was the daughter of Marquess and Marchioness of Crewe, great-granddaughter of Baron Mayer de Rothschild. In 1935, Mary married the ninth Duke of Roxburghe and later became The Duchess of Roxburghe. The Duchess of Roxburghe was notable for her tenacity and striking deportment, and certainly for the splendid myriad of jewels that she wore and inherited. The Duchess worked for many charities and was President of the National Union of Townswomen’s Guilds. She was also a devoted patron of the Royal Ballet and an enthusiastic member of the Royal Society of Literature.

This important pair of ruby earrings, together with an astonishing necklace set with rubies of matching colour and quality are thought to be purchased from Garrard by the 5th Earl of Rosebery in 1884 as recorded in the his diary entry. Just a few years prior to that the Mogok Valley mines were acquired by the British and operations were overseen by the British jeweller Edwin Streeter. It is possible to say that this suite of rubies may have been among the first Mogok specimens reaching England. They would most likely have been a present for Countess Rosebery and then gifted to their daughter, the Marchioness of Crewe and thence by descent to her daughter, Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe.